湯浅醤油有限会社 丸新本家の新古敏朗です。
⽇仏結ぶ「発酵の技」 ボルドーでワイン樽使ったしょうゆ⽣産 ミシュラン店も愛⽤
先日、産経新聞のパリ支局の三井美奈さまからインタビュー受けた、
フランスの醤油つくりが記事になりました。
時事は、有料なのですべて掲載できませんが、
フランスに進出した湯浅醬油有限会社醤油の事を下に書きました。
1. 概要と戦略転換の背景
-
目標と輸出経緯
-
2005年頃よりパリ・ニューヨークへ輸出を開始。
-
2010年頃の東日本大震災後、「日本の食の放射能」風評により返品・輸出停止が発生。対策として現地製造へ舵切り。
-
-
ボルドー選定理由（2014年視察）
-
約7,000軒にのぼる醸造所群、瓶詰・ラベル等の周辺産業の成熟、ワイン用設備（大型樽等）の利活用可能性を確認。
-
発酵プロセスの共通点（麹づくりは日本の強み）により、現地適応の実行可能性を確信。
-
-
地域経済への意義
-
ワイン設備の農閑期活用による多角化、赤ワイン消費低迷・離農の課題に対する新産業モデルとして機能。
-
2. 現地見学・初期評価と味の特徴
-
現地蔵で工程を直接確認。ボルドーのワイン樽（ボルドー樽）を活用した醸造が象徴的。
-
市場価格は総じて高額（ボンマルシェで確認）。
-
テイスティング印象
-
白（薄口系）：色移りが少なく見栄え維持、甘みと軽やかさ。大豆の匂い控えめ。塩が前に出る傾向。
-
黒（濃口系／ノワール）：熟成1年設計の厚み。和歌山の濃口（約18ヶ月熟成）に比べ軽快。
-
和歌山醤油は旨味重視・長期熟成の複雑味が特徴。
-
3. 醸造環境・原料・水・塩
-
水質影響
-
ボルドーの地下水（アバチーユ）は現地分類で軟水だが、日本基準では硬水寄り。石灰岩質の土壌背景で硬度が高め。
-
料理文化が硬水前提のため、醤油も硬水適合へ設計変更。
-
-
原料ポリシー
-
日本：高タンパク大豆選別が主流。
-
フランス：無農薬（オーガニック）最優先。約400年の無農薬農法を継ぐパートナー（アドリアン、マギナ）と連携。近隣農家に委託栽培、将来は自作も視野。
-
-
塩の選定
-
現行：イル・ド・レの海塩。
-
候補：ゲランドの海塩（風味・供給・知名度で優位の可能性）。切替テストを計画。
-
4. 製品・生産体制
-
製品構成
-
白（フランス向け薄口系／約6ヶ月熟成）：投資回収が速いが角が立ちやすい特性を前提管理。
-
黒（濃口系ノワール／約12ヶ月熟成）：回収に時間、味はより円熟。
-
-
生産量の拡大
-
2023年：約5,000本（試供）。
-
最新ロット：約50,000本へ増産。
-
-
権利・事業スキーム
-
商品名義は現地会社（ブランド名「シンコ」：新古氏名に由来）。
-
-
日本側企業背景
-
「マルシン」：明治14年（1881年）創業の金山寺味噌メーカー（“たまり”が醤油の起源）。
-
5. フランス市場での受容・価格・販路
-
価格帯・販路
-
プレミアム帯（例：1９ユーロ程度）でも好調。ボンマルシェ店頭・オンラインでリピート実績、スイス・ベルギーへ拡大。
-
-
採用と文化変容
-
ミシュラン星付き含む一流シェフが採用。赤ワインソース等のフレンチ文脈に醤油が自然に組み込まれつつある。
-
以前の「フレンチに醤油は野暮」の空気が変化。白醤油の“色が付かない”特性がフレンチの美意識・テロワール自負と親和。
-
「フランス産（ボルドーの樽・水・塩・農法）」の語りが説得力と誇りを付与。
-
6. 香り・丸大豆・バランス設計
-
香り重視の市場適応
-
フランスはワイン同様に香り評価が先行。香りの言語化と感度が高い。
-
-
丸大豆の優位
-
丸大豆由来の豊かな香りがプロの高評価を獲得。脱脂加工大豆主体の工業的醤油との差別化要因に。
-
-
味のバランス
-
入れ過ぎると塩辛さが立つため、香りと塩味の最適量設計が鍵。
-
7. 使い方・文化的文脈・レシピ提案
-
フランスの基本調味（塩・胡椒・ビネガー）に、醤油を加えることで香りと旨味の層が増幅。和食化ではなくフレンチの風味付けとして機能。
-
白醤油はスープやソースへ少量添加で旨味と香りを底上げ、色調を損なわない点が強み。
-
和食の分業型発酵調味（味噌・酒・みりん・鰹節等）とフレンチのソース技術の補完関係を提示。長期発酵資産を少量加えるだけでソースが劇的に深化。
8. 歴史的背景（湯浅と醤油の起源・日本の地域性）
-
湯浅は醤油発祥の地（日本遺産）。約770〜800年前、覚心が中国で麹を学び金山寺味噌を伝来、味噌から滲む“たまり”が醤油の起点。
-
豊臣秀吉期（約400年前）に「湯浅醤油」確立。湯浅の醤油屋は兵糧寄付で朱印状を得て販路拡大。江戸期最盛時は92軒。
-
近代は明治維新・流通変化で衰退。2002年、湯浅醤油社を設立し復興と世界展開へ。
-
関東・関西の水とだし
-
関東：硬水→昆布不向き、鰹＋濃口主流。
-
関西：軟水→昆布＋薄口・白が適合。
-
フランスは硬水文化だが、見栄え重視から白醤油中心で適応。
-
９. 現地パートナー・運営と言語
-
アドリアン、マディナは情熱的・勤勉。質疑応答を重ね毎年バージョンアップ（原料・水・塩・工程の継続チューニング）。
-
言語面は日本語中心のため、シェフ評価は現地パートナー経由で収集・整理。
結論
-
震災後の輸出停滞を機に、ワイン産地の発酵・設備資源を活かすボルドー現地製造へ戦略転換。硬水・テロワールに適応した「白」中心設計がフレンチ文脈に見事に合致。
-
丸大豆由来の香りの優位性と“色を付けない旨味”が一流シェフと市場の支持を獲得。価格プレミアム下でもリピートを確認。
-
塩・水・工程を年次で磨き込む改良サイクル、無農薬原料のサプライ構築、物語性を伴う、地域多角化モデルとしての波及
Overview and Background of the Strategic Shift
Goals and Export History
Exports to Paris and New York began around 2005.
Following the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011, overseas markets were affected by reputational damage related to concerns over radioactive contamination in Japanese food products, resulting in product returns and export suspensions. In response, the company made a strategic decision to shift toward local production overseas.Why Bordeaux? (Site Visits in 2014)
Bordeaux was selected after on-site inspections conducted in 2014. The region is home to approximately 7,000 wineries, supported by a highly developed ecosystem of bottling, labeling, and related industries. The availability and adaptability of winemaking infrastructure—particularly large wooden barrels—were identified as major advantages.
In addition, while koji production remains a uniquely Japanese strength, the team recognized key similarities in fermentation philosophy and processes, leading to confidence that soy sauce brewing could be successfully adapted to the local environment.
Significance for the Regional Economy
The project enables off-season utilization of wine-making facilities, offering diversification opportunities at a time when red wine consumption has been declining and farm abandonment has become a challenge. As such, soy sauce brewing functions as a new industrial model contributing to regional resilience.
On-Site Evaluation and Flavor Characteristics
Production processes were directly observed at the local brewery, with fermentation in traditional Bordeaux wine barrels serving as a defining feature.
Market prices were generally positioned at the premium end, as confirmed through retail observation at Le Bon Marché.
Tasting Impressions
-
White (light-style soy sauce)
Minimal color transfer, preserving visual presentation. Light sweetness and freshness, with restrained soybean aroma. Saltiness tends to appear first. -
Black / Noir (dark-style soy sauce)
Designed for approximately one year of aging, offering depth while remaining lighter and more approachable than Wakayama-style dark soy sauce, which typically matures for around 18 months. -
Wakayama soy sauce is characterized by long-term aging and umami-forward complexity, reflecting a different philosophical balance.
Brewing Environment: Water, Ingredients, and Salt
Water Quality
Bordeaux groundwater (Abatilles) is classified locally as soft water, but by Japanese standards it leans toward hard water due to limestone-rich geology. As French cuisine is historically adapted to hard water, the soy sauce formulation was redesigned accordingly.
Ingredient Policy
-
Japan: Emphasis on selecting high-protein soybeans.
-
France: Absolute priority on organic, pesticide-free cultivation.
-
The project collaborates with partners Adrien and Madina, who continue a nearly 400-year tradition of organic agriculture. Ingredients are grown by nearby farmers under contract, with plans for future self-cultivation.
Salt Selection
-
Current: Sea salt from Île de Ré.
-
Under Evaluation: Guérande sea salt, which may offer advantages in flavor, supply stability, and brand recognition. Switching tests are planned.
-
Products and Production System
Product Lineup
-
White (France-oriented light style / ~6 months aging):
Faster return on investment, though requiring careful management due to sharper edges. -
Black “Noir” (dark style / ~12 months aging):
Longer maturation and slower capital recovery, but greater roundness and depth. -
Production Expansion
-
2023: Approximately 5,000 bottles (sampling scale).
-
Latest batch: Expanded to approximately 50,000 bottles.
-
Business Structure and Rights
Products are registered under the local company, marketed under the brand name “SHINKO,” derived from the founder’s family name.
Japanese Corporate Background
The parent company, Marushin Honke, was founded in 1881 and is a traditional producer of Kinzanji miso, from which tamari—the precursor to soy sauce—originated.
Market Reception, Pricing, and Distribution in France
Pricing and Channels
The product performs well even in the premium price range (around €19). It has achieved repeat sales both in-store and online at Le Bon Marché and has expanded distribution into Switzerland and Belgium.
Adoption and Cultural Shift
Top-tier chefs, including Michelin-starred professionals, have adopted the soy sauce. It is increasingly integrated into French culinary contexts such as red wine sauces.
The former perception that “soy sauce does not belong in French cuisine” has shifted. The color-neutral quality of white soy sauce aligns particularly well with French aesthetics and respect for terroir.
The narrative of being “French-made”—using Bordeaux barrels, local water, salt, and agricultural practices—adds persuasive power and pride.
Aroma, Whole Soybeans, and Balance Design
Aroma-Driven Market Adaptation
As in wine culture, aroma evaluation takes precedence in France, with a highly developed sensory vocabulary.
Advantages of Whole Soybeans
The rich aromatic profile derived from whole soybeans has earned strong professional acclaim and clearly differentiates the product from industrial soy sauces made primarily with defatted soybeans.
Flavor Balance
Overuse can result in excessive saltiness, making precise balance between aroma and salinity essential.
Usage, Cultural Context, and Culinary Applications
By adding soy sauce to core French seasonings—salt, pepper, and vinegar—chefs can amplify aromatic and umami layers without shifting toward Japanese cuisine.
White soy sauce, when added sparingly to soups or sauces, enhances depth and aroma without altering color.
The project highlights the complementary relationship between Japanese modular fermented seasonings (miso, sake, mirin, katsuobushi) and French sauce techniques. A small addition of long-aged fermented ingredients can dramatically deepen sauces.
Historical Background: Yuasa and the Origins of Soy Sauce
Yuasa is recognized as the birthplace of soy sauce and designated as a Japan Heritage site. Approximately 770–800 years ago, the monk Kakushin studied koji in China and introduced Kinzanji miso to Japan; the liquid tamari that seeped from the miso became the foundation of soy sauce.
Around 400 years ago, during the Toyotomi era, “Yuasa soy sauce” was formally established. Local brewers gained official seals after supplying provisions for military campaigns, expanding distribution nationwide. At its peak during the Edo period, Yuasa had 92 soy sauce producers.
Following decline due to modernization and distribution changes, Yuasa Soy Sauce Co. was founded in 2002 to revive the tradition and pursue global expansion.
Water and Broth Culture: Eastern vs. Western Japan
-
Kanto: Hard water → kombu less suitable; bonito-based stock and dark soy sauce dominate.
-
France, while culturally a hard-water region, has adapted primarily through white soy sauce due to its emphasis on visual presentation.
Local Partners, Operations, and Language
Partners Adrien and Madina are highly dedicated and hardworking. Through continuous dialogue and annual revisions, ingredients, water, salt, and processes are constantly refined.
As operations are conducted primarily in Japanese, chef feedback is collected, translated, and analyzed through local partners.
-
Kansai: Soft water → kombu-based stock; light and white soy sauces are preferred.
2023年3月にオープンした Pavillon Yuasa（湯浅醤油のはなれ）
フランスボルドーのレストラン
