This is Reminiscence of Trip to Japan in November 2015.
As a special round ticket for travelers from overseas, there is the JAPAN RAIL PASS where all regions of JR during the designated period, the Shinkansen (except "Nozomi" Express), the limited express (except sleeper train), will be unlimited to ride. They can select 7 day's pass, 14 day's pass and 21 day's pass can be purchased on these specified period. If it is 7 day's pass, it is very advantageous that the current price is US $ 272 (29,110 yen), and the high grade green car usage is US $ 364 (38,880 yen). The fact that the number of foreign travelers from overseas to Japan are increasing. The rail pass seems to be the one of reason why they are visiting to Japan.
About Japan Rail Pass.
Where can you buy it?
How to use the Japan Rail Pass.
Please visit and get more information from this site.
During my 13 years of assignment to the United States, I and my family had Permanent Residence Card (Green Card) and stayed in the United States. The status of Citizenship, Permanent Residence is able to get the rail pass even if Japanese nationality. Unfortunately, the aliens from Japan who is staying with a visas such as standard working visa and student visa has no right and cannot purchase the rail pass. More recently, purchasing qualifications for green card holders became more severe. In addition to having a green card, we have to ask the diplomatic embassy to issue a residence certificate staying for over 10 years in the United States.
Fortunately, my family and myself have been able to purchase the rail passes twice in the past and we traveled luxury for seven days during our temporary return to Japan.
In the first travel, we traveled to the west with high grade Green car available rail pass. At this time, I decided the whole schedule in advance like dots and lines. then we secured a necessary designated seat.
1st day
from Shin Yokohama to Shin Osaka by "Hikari" Super Express
from Shin Osaka to Hakata by "Sakura"Super Express
I do not know why, but because this rail pass cannot be used for Shinkansen "Nozomi"super express, it will take more time, but we went to Shin Osaka by "Hikari" express. Then we headed for "Dotonbori" sightseeing by taxi. It's lunch time and we had "Kitsune Udon" at Imai Restaurant near "Dotonbori". Osaka's sweet kelp soup noodles are also delicious. Osaka udon is soft and different from "Sanuki udon" which is hard crunch, in fact Osaka Udon is my preference. After we walked around "Dotonbori", "Hozenji Yokocho", We had enough time, so we walked to "Umeda" station and We returned to "Shin Osaka" by subway. I bought "Takoyaki" at "Kukuru" in Shin Osaka station and made it a friend of beer inside the bullet train to Hakata.
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We arrived at Hakata station. We checked in to a hotel near Hakata station and we headed to "Tenjin" by 1 underground station. Tonight's dinner is Chicken "Mizutaki" pot which is the most famous meal in Hakata. We can enjoy firmly crunchy chicken and soup with plenty of collagen, chicken balls, plenty of vegetables, and the delicious porridge in the last.
Famous Hakata Mizutaki
Yobiko Ika Squid
Incredible! Also large size of live squid was served. This is named "Yobiko Ika" and it has transparent body and it is also famous in Hakata.
Because the squid is alive, it still moves slightly, the sucker gets caught in my tongue. This is also amazing experience.
Do you know Goma Saba (sesame mackerel)? This is also very popular in Hakata. You must have it.
Goma Saba
2nd day
Hakata - (by Bus) - Dazaifu - (Nishitetsu) - Tenjin -
Fukuoka Kokusai Center - Nakasu
Today 's late afternoon we are scheduled to watch Grand Sumo Wrestling in Kyushu place. Since we have a time, we decided to go to "Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine" in morning. It is the second time, but I do not have much memories of the first time. After visiting the main shrine, we tried searching training place of "Isegahama Beya (Stable)" because the stable is located in Tenmangu shrine, but the practice has already been over. As there was a violent case of "Yokozuna", now Isegahama Stable is glooming, but the Isegahama Beya at that time was top condition. They have Yokozuna - "Haruma Fuji", Ozeki - "Teruno Fuji" and Sekitori - "Takara Fuji", "Ami Nishiki" (Both wrestler was previously Sekiwake), and on this day, "Haruma Fuji" won another Yokozuna - "Hakuho" and "Haruma Fuji" won the championship this place. And it was the place where the former Yokozuna and the Chief Director of Sumo Association, "Kitano Umi" died suddenly the next day.
There is Taisho Romantic coffee shop, Kazamidori Cafe (weathercock) on the way to Dazaifu station of Nishitetsu. We took a coffee time here. Also the Starbucks which is near from Kazamidori Cafe is very fancy in appearance. Everyone was taking pictures.
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When we arrived at Tenjin station, it was lunch time and we searched for a shop in "Kyushu Tonkotsu Ramen". We decided to "Nagahama Number One", this is a shop changed from a Yatai stand. I thought that it was a ramen with a bone-smelling rich soup. But it was a refined and easy-to-eat ramen. In Meantime, Origin of Kyushu ramen is the stall ("Yatai") named "Nanking Senryo" in Kurume city, and I heard that the ramen in white polk bone broth soup was made accidentary by mistaking the fire. It is said that both the head shop and the stalls are still thriving.
Sumo wrestling Kyushu place is easier to get tickets. We can see big flag of Sold out Crowd but the vacant seat stands out. And I thought that Yaji (Bronx cheer) was vulgar and noisy. (But, that was fairly funny) And because the audience seats are narrow, we can get closer to the wrestlers.
Today 's result is the Isegahama stable greatest condition, Ami Nishiki also won, as mentioned above, and in addition, Turuno Fuji won the Yokozuna Kakuryu in the last match. When Haruma Fuji won Hakuho, the lots of seat cushions fly for "Dohyo". It was pretty dangerous.
After sumo wrestling this day, buses and taxis were so crowded that we headed by walk from Fukuoka International Center to Nakasu. The purpose is a Yatai stand. There are many stalls facing the canal, but quite often all the stalls are crowded, and it seems like it has to get any seat when we find vacant seats. Many shops are offering Ramen, Oden and Skewers. In spite of those type of dishes, the price of meals are high. I'm wondering if this is tourist /resort price. I was disappointed because I was expecting delicious food with low price. Although it may be tough to manage and organize, it seems better to open more stores and compete for taste, price and services each other.
We used Nishitetsu line (private railroad) only today. We had no chance to use the rail pass.
3rd day
Hakata - Hiroshima - Miyajimaguchi - Itsukushima Shrine
Around Hakata station, there are many set of morning menu with around 500 yen, but today I got Hakata soft Udon. Sure it was really soft. This is also tasty, right?
We were heading to Hiroshima by bullet train. In Hiroshima station, we changed to the JR conventional line, getting off at Miyajimaguchi station on the other side of "Itsukushima Shrine" and we acrossed to "Itsukushima Shrine" by JR ferry.
In the morning, the tide was low. But the tide was dragging as you could walk to the "Torii" (Red Shrine Gate). When I bought a famous baked oyster on the approach road and headed for a torii, the tide came up and We could not walk to the torii.
We walked around the red precinct of shrine like floating in the water at high tide. It's lunch time. How do you like Hiroshima Okonomiyaki? We entered the small restaurant that holds the flag of "Otafuku sauce" which is one of my client in our US warehouse. Here is a sightseeing spot, but the taste was not bad.
Itsukushima Shrine has a variety of buildings such as a vast site spreading to the upper part of the island as well as a five-storied pagoda, as well as the red precincts of the seaside. After a long walk, it will be in the evening, returning to Miyajimaguchi by ferry, and staying tonight at the hotel which can see the view of the bay from the room. There are a lot of raft for oyster farming. Hiroshima Prefecture has the largest production of Oyster in Japan. The production share is 65%.
All transportation Fee was covered by the rail pass today including ferries.
4th day
Miyajimaguchi - Hiroshima - Shin Onomichi -
Kirara Express Bus - Matsuyama - Dogo Onsen
I had never been to "Shikoku" before. It finally decided to go through a bridge over the islands of the Seto Inland Sea (Setonaikai). We were heading to "Shin Onomichi" Station by Shinkansen, from here we head for Ehime Prefecture "Matsuyama" by the Chugoku bus Co., "Kirara Express". We across the bridges named "Shimanami Kaido" from "Onomichi" to "Innoshima", "Omishima", "Oshima", and "Imabari", islands and bridges are splendidly connected.
Unfortunately, this bus is not applicable for rail pass.
In Matsuyama city, a tram is the symbol, and those trams are also used for Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama Castle. There are also retro cars called Botchan train, and every car is pretty crowded. We firstly went to Dogo Onsen so to keep our Baggage at the inn. We get on the streetcar again and we head for Matsuyama Castle. Because Honmaru (Castle Keep) is on the top of the mountain, lifts and ropeway like in ski resort are connected to the top of the mountain. You can also climb by walking, but it is quite a steep slope. Matsuyama Castle is a famous castle that is one of Hirayama castle** in Japan, which has Honmaru, Ninomaru, and Sannomaru. Although the existing buildings are mostly restored and rebuilt due to repeated fire from Edo to Showa era, they still have numerous important cultural assets.
** A castle built on a hill or plateau, the height of the terrain is advantageously made for the defense.
Botchan Train
Lift climing up to Castle
Today 's inn is near the center of Dogo Onsen, an old building like an old private house, with no meals, no bath so we have to use outside hot springs facility.
Since famous building, Dogo Onsen Main Bldg., was told that it is old and dirty to use as a public bathing. Therefore we firstly completed the hot water bath at the newer opened community bathhouse nearby. There are various shops around Dogo Onsen Main Bldg., The main building was just decorated and lighted up. I now regret that I should have tried it in this tradditional hot spring as well. After all, beer! and Matsuyama specialty fresh fried fish cake "Jyako Ten" as a nice appetizer. Then we had to go around to have dinner. but the shops of specialty "Tai Meshi" were crowded everywhere and I did not remember the meals what we ate in that dinner.
Jyako Ten Fish Cakes
Matsuyama's "Tai Meshi" is a dish that cooks one baked sea bream together in cooked rice and sharing it. But the "Tai Meshi" around Uwajima city brings the sashimi of the sea bream to those with soy sauce and mixes raw eggs, sesame seeds and shredded leeks on white rice. It becomes a completely different cooking of sea breams.
Tai Meshi in Matsuyama City
Tai Meshi in Uwajima City
5th day
Dogo Onsen - Matsuyama - (JR Express Shiokaze) -
Okayama - Himeji - Himeji Castle
On this day, we will take a limited express “Shiokaze” from Matsuyama station. We are entering Kagawa Prefecture through the Shikoku Yosan Line, passing Utazu and going to the Seto Ohashi Bridge line. In Okayama station, we change to the Shinkansen and visit Himeji and Himeji Castle. It is a comfortable train journey with a green car using a rail pass.
We checked out Dogo inn early in the morning and took “Jyagoten udon” at Matsuyama Station.
Matsuyama Station
Jakoten Udon in Matsuyama Station
In the original schedule, I thought that we descend once at “Utazu” or “Marugame” to have "Sanuki Udon", but we went to Okayama with priority to have more time at Himeji and Castle. Limited Express "Shiokaze" runs along "Imabari" city where dock yard can see, along "Setonaikai". The train past “Kawanoe” and entered Kagawa Prefecture going through “Tadotsu” – “Marugame” and the lane is dividing from “Utazu”to Seto Brige Line. Our train across over the Seto Ohashi Bridge. The posts and beams of bridge gets in our field of view and it's difficult to enjoy the excellent view of Setonaikai.
Seto Ohashi Bridge Line
We went to Himeji by connecting to the Shinkansen in Okayama. In Himeji, we put our baggage at the hotel in front of the station. We are heading for Himeji Castle where renovation work was recently completed. You can see the great white castle tower which was dignified from the station. Food festival was held in the castle square. We ignored the event. But we have to look for lunch place. There was a shop named “Tamagoya” in front of castle entrance. It was a shop just offering fresh eggs and cooked rice. By offering homemade brand fresh eggs, we can get those free of additional raw eggs in free in addition to rice, miso soup and pickles. I thought that this strange kind of meal seems to be a good business. As there were several side menus, we ordered “Mentaiko” and a “Baked Anago” (Conger).
However, I know the most of visitor from overseas do not want to eat raw egg. Don't worry, please try. It's very delicious especially the thick colored yolk.
The appearance of Main Castle which was too much white right after the renovation work of Himeji Castle became familiar and natural. In the history of Himeji Castle, the basic maintenance was just repair only, it is a real castle kept as it is without burning down after the buildings of the Edo period. I was so impressed when I visited the inside of the castle for the first time.
The last visiting was quiet and I could read and observe the explanatory text carefully, but this time is national holiday and it was very crowded.
Therefore, I could only go around the main course of Honmaru in a hurry. So I tried circling the Sannomaru which I did not go last time. Sannomaru with a vast garden and corridor is also a temporary place where that "Princes Sen" lived when she re-married to "Honda Family" after the Osaka summer campaign (the last battle between Tokugawa and Toyotomi).
"Princess Sen" The last bride of the Toyotomi family.
The grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu.
That evening I met old friend and I enjoyed the "Setouchi" cuisine at a high-class restaurant in Himeji.
6th day
Himeji - Shin Osaka - (JR Limited Express Thunderbird) - Kanazawa - (JR Limited Express Noto Kagaribi) - Wakura Onsen
On this day as well, we are going from Himeji to Wakura Onsen by green car using the rail pass all the way. We headed from Himeji to Shin Osaka by Shinkansen, then we change to JR Limited express Thunderbird and go to Kanazawa. The rainbow was so beautiful when we were running along Kosei line on the way.
After arriving in Kanazawa, we went to a sushi restaurant in the station premises. I have checked the good sushi restaurant before the arrival. Nodoguro is the most popular fish in Kanazawa. It is so delicious but high price. We enjoyed the nigiri sushi including Nodoguro and other special sort of fishes. Also we enjoyed drinking Sake named "Tedorigawa" which is famous brand in Kanazawa.
After the lunch, even while my family was shopping, I enjoyed tasting three kinds of local Japanese sake inside souvenir shop.
We will stay Wakura Onsen this night. We have booked the express train from Kanazawa to Wakura Onsen.
Lighting up "Togetsuan"
Kagaya and Nanao Bay
Kagaya Ryokan is the most famous and high grade Hotel in Wakura Onsen. I thought to stay Kagaya Ryokan first. But I have decided to book "Togetsuan” in very traditional Ryokan (Inn), which is a beautiful wooden building with Taisho Roman mood. The lighting up in night is so beautiful. It is spacious interior decorated in Japanese style room, which has two big rooms with 24 tatami mats each. You can see Nanao Bay and Kagaya new building from the window. Because it is old inn of all 10 rooms, baths are not that big, but it seemed the size is enough. The meals are not served in room, but it is a sufficient quality of dinner even if we do not order for special menu such as Crab, Abalone or Nodoguro.
The aged serving lady (Nakai san) gently explained about the meals.
We were not able to explore the surroundings due to strong winds unfortunately this day.
Last 7th day
Wakura Onsen - (Limited Express Thunderbird) - Kanazawa (Hokuriku Shinkansen) -
Toyama (Hokuriku Shinkansen) - Ueno
In morning, we took a fulfilling breakfast at the inn, we checked out relatively slowly. We head for Kanazawa by Limited Express Thunderbird. After arriving to Kanazawa, we will take a walk in Kenrokuen park. This is second time. The last visiting was in May, but this season has autumn leaves are so beautiful.
We missed to visit the Oumi market, but I also wanted to visit Toyama, so we bought Kanazawa souvenir and headed for Toyama. Unfortunately, it was raining on this day too in Toyama, so we just went around the Toyama city by the tram.
Hokuriku Shinkansen "Kagayaki"
We bought "Masuno Sushi" (Trout Bento) which is popular station bento and we got on Hokuriku Shinkansen, which is the final use of this rail pass trip. Hokuriku Shinkansen "Kagayaki" was very crowded and we could not get a reservation ticket of green car. General seats are also full. Already after sunset. We cannot see the scenery from the window, and the Rail Pass trip of the last was over with a boring and sleeping time to Ueno.
"Masuno Sushi" (Trout Bento)
We stayed at cheap hotel near Nippori Station (although there is large Japanese style room and large public bath. it was not bad), the next day I headed to Narita Airport by the Express Keisei Skyliner and returned to Los Angeles on about 10 hour's flight.
Keisei Skyliner
It was a fairly tough 7 day's trip but it was fulfilling. I think that it was because it was a journey of relaxing in train.
In Los Angeles it will be a trip by a car, an airplane, or both, and we will not get on the train. We were liberated from driving everyday, safe Japanese train journey was really nice. And it was awesome to enjoy a delicious meals and drinking with local products of local areas around Japan.
~ Continue to the second Rail Pass trip ~