In mid of last month, I had a chance to visit Aizu-Wakamatsu for the first time. It's already spring season, but the surrounding mountains were covered with white snow. in 1591, Sen Rikyu commited ritual suicide (Seppuku) following the order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. After his death, his younger son, Shoan Sojun got away from Kyoto and took shelter with the lord of Aizu-Wakamatsu, Gamou Ujisato, who was one of Rikyu's 7 faithful followers.
Ujisato was Christian Daimyo (feudal Lord). It is said that Ujisato felt guilty that he could not send off Rikyu at the Yodo River who was exiled by Hideyoshi, while Hosokawa Sansai and Furuta Oribe did that despite of danger of their lives. Approx. three years later, Hideyoshi perdoned Rikyu's family, and Shoan re-established Sen House, and succeeded to his son, Sen Sotan. I am interested in how Shoan felt and how he was living in Aizu-Wakamatsu, northern part of Japan, so far away from Kyoto, with deep snow.
It is well known that there was a fierce battle at Tsurugashima castle during Boshin-war, about 150 years ago. Aizu-clan made a siege, and finally surrendered. About 100 years later, the castle was rebuilt to be the present white and beautiful one. It was shining brightly under the sun. In the castle, there is a tea room, "Rinkaku". It is said that it was built by Shoan.
The tea room of Rinkaku has been preserved as Shoan built, with straw-thatched roof, yellow-colored mud wall; simple, rustic and good harmony with nature. It was rather rust away, but has a spirit of Sen Rikyu. I believe Shoan never forgot the Way of Tea, and devoted himself to it even his future was totally unknown.
At the corner of tea garden, Katakuri (dogtooth violet) flowers were blooming quietly. Shoan is not spot-lighted in the history, compared with Rikyu and Sotan, but Shoan also should have overcome a lot of difficulties to protect Rikyu's spirit, and to re-establish Sen House. I was more impressed by the rusty tea room and small Katakuri flowers than the gorgeous castle and blooming sakura flowers.