This is where the armsshould be positioned as they are tightened into place.

As mentioned earlier, it may be easier toperform the final torque application for the upper control arm bolts withoutthe bicycle shock absorber wheel and tire in the way. The nut and bolt are 16mm. You will need to manipulate the ball joints themselves to get themetal posts of the joints to align perfectly with the holes. Consult the earlier photos for the correctconfiguration of the unique control arms. Use the 8 and 2 olock positions for the left-sidefront suspension, as shown here. Once you get theminto position, use a rubber mallet to tap the joints down into the holes in theuprights.

 

Attach each control arm in its appropriateposition with new hardware. If you jack the front suspension up to anapproximation of the resting ride height, you can access these bolts like so -but you probably won’t be able to get a torque wrench in there. Alternatively, you could jackup the suspension to where it would be with the car on the ground and thentighten it’s his method would give you better access. The pinch bolt restsin this groove when it is installed l need to get that groove deep enough intothe upright that the pinch bolt can pass through.

 

As you put the assembly in place, thisbody-mounted stud threads through a hole in the upper mount to assist you inaligning mount with the bolt holes in the body. It’s a tight space to work in.

 

Replace the three upper mount bolts andtheir washers.

 

Use a new nut and bolt to secure the shock. Note the four holes provided for the twostuds on the top of the spring assembly. Tighten to 15 bicycle shock absorber ft-lbs.

 

Position the bottom of the shock so thatyou can secure it to the lower control arm.

 

The Bentley manual specifies that youmeasure a drop of 47mm,+/- 2mm, from the tip of theupper mount down to the top surface of the control arms.

 

Attach the upper mount to the top of theassembly with two 13mmnuts - you should use new hardware here.

 

Align the ball joints with the holes in theupright. Your goal is to get the end of themetal post of the ball joint roughly flush with the underside of the hole inthe upright to allow the pinch bolt to line up with the semi-circular groove inthe ball joint. You may find that it¯ impossible to get a torque wrenchonto these bolts at that stage, so get it close for now and then add that 1/4turn on the ground using a conventional wrench. Use some anti-seize lubricant and newhardware and torque the nut and bolt to 30 ft-lbs.com. Note the new shock absorber from the .Note that I’ll put the bolt to the front side of the arm rather than the rearto make it easier to remove the bolt in the future. Note thesemi-circular groove around the post of each ball joint.