■雑感
最近、ワイン飲んで無いなぁと呟きつつ、昨晩、”印象深い系”のワインを２本開けた。
先ずは、イタリアの白と赤。
ヴェルメンティーノとブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ。
造り手は、オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキとシロ・パチェンティ。
リグーリアとトスカーナの銘酒である。
前者はカジュアル、後者がゴージャスと云う違いは有るが、何れも美味で、感慨深い。
特に後者、大好きなカテゴリーの赤ワインで、此れまで飲んだトスカーナのワインとしては、スーパータスカンと比肩し得る物が多くあり、時には其れを凌駕する物に出会ったりする。
正直、嬉しいですねぇ。
少々お高いが、まぁ、其れもやむ無しか！？
節電ムードが蔓延する日本にあって、とうとう冷房を切れなくなった我が家で、ワインを飲み出す結果と相成った、、、。
■オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキ（Ottaviano Lambruschi）
http://www.ottavianolambruschi.com/
ヴェルメンティーノの最高峰な造り手の１つ。
1970年代、大理石の石切工をしていた現オーナーのオッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキ氏が兄弟と共にはじめたワイナリー。優れたヴェルメンティーノを産出するコッリ・ディ・ルーニ地区に畑を所有している。
高い品質の葡萄を得るため、徹底した栽培に取り組んでいる。畑の畝に草を交互に生やし、葡萄の根が養分を求め地中深くまで伸びるよう競争させる。また、畑には常に風が吹き抜け、葡萄は衛生的に保たれるため、化学薬品をほとんど用いずに栽培を行うことが可能で、必要に迫られるような特別なことがなければ、まず化学薬品を用いることはない。
コスタ・マリーナとサルティーコラ、２つの畑のワインを別々に瓶詰め。これらの畑のある丘は粘土質が豊富で、ローマ帝国の時代からここで葡萄栽培が行われてきた。
コスタ・マリーナは平均樹齢30～35年で東南向き、サルティーコラは平均樹齢40年で東～東南向き。いずれ劣らぬ素晴らしいヴェルメンティーノを産出している。
エスプレッソ誌にて、2009年ヴィンテージではコスタ・マリーナが18/20でリグーリア最高得点を獲得、2006年ヴィンテージではサルティーコラが18.5/20でリグーリア最高得点を獲得と、それぞれに最高の評価を受けている。また、その純粋で力強い味わいはイタリアワインの帝王、アンジェロ・ガヤをも虜にしたと言う。
今や、ピエモンテだけでなく、ボルゲリにもワイナリーを所有しているガヤ。彼がボルゲリ近くのレストランで必ず飲むのが、オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキのコスタ・マリーナなのだと、、、。
●コッリ・ディ・ルーニ・ヴェルメンティーノ・コスタ・マリーナ 2010 オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキ
Colli di Luni Vermentino Costa Marina 2010 Ottaviano Lambruschi
▽750ml/イタリア・リグーリア産/白ワイン
▽D.O.C. コッリ・ディ・ルーニ
▽葡萄品種：ヴェルメンティーノ100％
▽ステンレスタンクにて熟成
オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキが造るヴェルメンティーノ。そのいずれもリグーリアで最高水準のワインに数えられる。
標高220m、平均樹齢30～35年で東南向きの畑、コスタ・マリーナのワイン。
金色がかった輝きのある麦わら色。白桃や柑橘類のボリュームのある果実香に、ハーブやナッツのニュアンス。
オイリーな質感を持ち、ミネラル、酸ともに充実。豊潤な果実味を受け止めるしっかりとした骨格を備えている。
鮮やかで複雑なアロマが口中で繰り返され、余韻が上品に長く続く。
ボリュームのある果実味を豊かな酸が引き締め、絶妙にバランスが取れており、この地のヴェルメンティーノならではの力強さと繊細さがしっかり表現されている。
リグーリアの白の最高峰と言われるが、納得した。
●Vermentino dei Colli di Luni: An exciting Tosco-Ligurian White Wine
Kyle Phillips, Italian Food Guide
VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI is one of Italy's so-called lesser white wines. Quite lesser; Antonio Piccinardi doesn't even mention it in his 650 page Dizionario dei Vini Italiani. This is actually a rather serious oversight on Mr. Piccinardi's part; Vermentino can have tremendous personality and finesse, and offers a refreshing change of pace from the far more common Pinot Grigios, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs one finds in stores and restaurants.
Unfortunately, if you're in Italy and want to try Vermentino dei Colli di Luni you can either go to one of the best restaurants in town and hope its wine list is ample enough, or drive down to La Spezia, in Liguria -- as I did. You won't be disappointed; though the region is best known for the Cinque Terre (5 very pretty coastal towns just north of La Spezia, and also a white wine) there are many other things to see as well. Inland there's Tuscany and the Lunigiana region, a wild area with fortresses on almost every hill and enchanting Romanesque churches; there's also the Museo delle Stele (odd prehistoric statues) in Pontremoli and the Museo Etnografico in Villafranca in Lunigiana. To the south, along the Tuscan coast, there's Carrara, with its marble quarries, Massa, with more quarries, and a host of other attractions, including Versilia (an excellent area to work on a tan, with many fine restaurants) and Pietrasanta, where you can visit the studios where artisans transform the ideas of the world's great sculptors into finished pieces.
Returning to Vermentino, according to Antonio Piccinardi the grape is probably of Spanish origin; the Spaniards exported it to their possessions in Sardegna and Corsica, where Ligurian sailors took cuttings to take home and plant. It has adapted quite well to its new homeland, producing wines of considerable character and finesse. Though wine merchants have long been aware of this, the general public has not, because until quite recently Vermentino was mixed into other more lackluster wines to give them personality. Things began to change in the early 1980s when forward-looking producers decided make their Vermentino in purezza (by itself) and bottle it themselves; by the late 1980s Vermentino dei Colli di Luni received DOC status, and now the number of producers bottling has increased considerably.
Since many are new to bottling, and all are investing heavily to increase quality, things are very much in a state of flux -- a producer whose wines were nothing special last year can prove to be an extremely pleasant surprise this year. Most of the wines are fermented in steel, though a couple of producers are also experimenting with barrel fermentation. I have mixed feelings about this, because Vermentino is an extremely aromatic grape, producing wines with have charmingly nuanced bouquets. The bouquets of the barrel fermented Vermentini I have tasted do display the bitter almond overtones characteristic of Vermentino, but the other components -- floral notes, apples, apricots, strawberries, bell pepper, white pepper, and many more -- are drowned out by the vanilla from the barrique. Likewise, the complexities on the palate are overshadowed by the wood. Nobody I talked with is experimenting with the addition of extra-regional varietals, such as Chardonnay, primarily because they say the Vermentino would be overshadowed by the other grapes.
While in the area I visited three producers: Lambruschi, Giacomelli and Il Monticello. Of the three Lambruschi is perhaps the most famous -- Ottaviano Lambruschi quit his job in the quarries and planted a vineyard in 1973, and was one of the first producers to bottle, in 1982. Roberto Giacomelli's family has been making wine for generations, but began bottling when he joined the business in 1992. Monticello's Davide and Alessandro Neri discovered they'd inherited a way of life as well as a vineyard when everybody who had received a bottle of their first vintage as a Christmas gift came back for more. The Wines:
■シロ・パチェンティ（Siro Pacenti）
http://www.siropacenti.it/
熟成にフレンチオークの小樽を用いる現代的な造り手の中でも、人気の高いシロ・パチェンティのブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ。
北部と南部、それぞれにテロワールの異なる２つの畑を所有し、ブレンドすることでより調和のとれた高いレベルのワインを生み出している。
フレンチオークのバリックを使用して24カ月熟成。現代的なスタイルのブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノの頂点に位置する造り手だ。
凝縮した果実の味わいがありながら、きめが整ったシルキーな質感を持ち、パワフルかつエレガント。極めて完成度の高いワインを造る。
●ブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ 1999 シロ・パチェンティ
Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Siro Pacenti
▽750ml/イタリア・トスカーナ産/赤ワイン
▽D.O.C.G.ブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ
▽葡萄品種：ブルネッロ（＝サンジョヴェーゼ・グロッソ100％）
凝縮された濃厚な果実の味わいがありながら、きめが整い、高いレベルでバランスが取れている優れた赤ワイン。パワフルかつエレガント、極めて完成度の高いワインであり、モダンなブルネッロの最高峰の１つと言われるだけの事はある。
●ABOUT US
The medieval hill town is situated at 500 metres of altitude, and commands extraordinary views of the surrounding plains and hills. The Siro Pacenti winery is located just below the town, to its north-east.
The vineyards are divided into seven separate plots (of equally high quality, but each retaining its own individual charateristics). About one-third are positioned around the casa colonica that is the headquarters of the estate; the rest are located about 20 kms further south, on the other side of the group of hills that Montalcino commands. Altogether these make up the 20 hectares of Sangiovese (Tuscany’s principal grape variety, and Brunello’s ‘heart’) that Giancarlo Pacenti uses to produce his 60.000 bottles per year, divided between Brunello di Montalcino (the ‘first’ wine) and Rosso di Montalcino (the ‘second’).
The total estate comprises 60 hectares, of which 20 are cultivated with cereal crops, 20 are divided between olive groves and woods, and the final third are given over to the vineyards. Of these, 18.5 are registered to the Brunello di Montacino DOCG appellation; 1.5 to the Rosso di Motalcino DOC, and 0.5 to the newer Sant’Antimo DOC.
The vineyards closest to the winery (circa 7 hectares) are on the hill that slopes gently down from the house to the main road. Here the vineyards alternate with cereal crops in a checker-board pattern. The second piece of land is reached by passing the remarkable Romanesque abbey, Sant’Antimo. The road opens out to reveal Mount Amiata, then bends to the south around the hill on which Montalcino stands. Here there are 20 hectares, of which 13 are planted to vines: 5 little ‘parcels’ situated at altitudes of between 330 and 150 metres.
○Rosso di Montalcino DOC Siro Pacenti
The grapes that go into the Rosso are exactly the same as those used for the Brunello. The decision is taken about which wine to use them for only after the vinification has been completed, and a lot of thoughtful tasting has taken place. Around 30.000 bottles are usually produced of the Rosso; they go onto the market in the second March after the harvest. However, there are some exceptions: in the difficult 2002 vintage, which was plagued by bad weather, Pacenti decided not to make any Brunello, but to concentrate the best wine in a high quality Rosso.
○Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Siro Pacenti
Pacenti’s Brunello di Montalcino is a great Sangiovese, and a true reflection of the potential of the estate’s terroir. Clearly, everything begins with meticulous selection in the vineyard of the best bunches. Each lot is then harvested, vinified and aged separately.
About 13 months after the harvest, Pacenti and Glories taste the results of these separate vinifications, and decide on the final assemblage. Then the Brunello goes on to complete its 24 months of barrel-aging in French barriques. 18 months of bottle-fining follows.
Annual production of Brunello is around 30.000 bottles. Out of the 1990 end 2004 vintages, Pacenti has also produced a very limited quantities of bottles, of a special Cru, “SP” ,coming from a single north vine planted by Siro Pacenti beginning 1970 .
と言う具合です。
今晩も、面白いのを頂こうと思う。
なので、勢い込んで抜栓。
悪くない。
それでは、今晩、、、宜しくね！
＼(^_^=^_^)／ ♪！
最近、ワイン飲んで無いなぁと呟きつつ、昨晩、”印象深い系”のワインを２本開けた。
先ずは、イタリアの白と赤。
ヴェルメンティーノとブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ。
造り手は、オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキとシロ・パチェンティ。
リグーリアとトスカーナの銘酒である。
前者はカジュアル、後者がゴージャスと云う違いは有るが、何れも美味で、感慨深い。
特に後者、大好きなカテゴリーの赤ワインで、此れまで飲んだトスカーナのワインとしては、スーパータスカンと比肩し得る物が多くあり、時には其れを凌駕する物に出会ったりする。
正直、嬉しいですねぇ。
少々お高いが、まぁ、其れもやむ無しか！？
節電ムードが蔓延する日本にあって、とうとう冷房を切れなくなった我が家で、ワインを飲み出す結果と相成った、、、。
■オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキ（Ottaviano Lambruschi）
http://www.ottavianolambruschi.com/
ヴェルメンティーノの最高峰な造り手の１つ。
1970年代、大理石の石切工をしていた現オーナーのオッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキ氏が兄弟と共にはじめたワイナリー。優れたヴェルメンティーノを産出するコッリ・ディ・ルーニ地区に畑を所有している。
高い品質の葡萄を得るため、徹底した栽培に取り組んでいる。畑の畝に草を交互に生やし、葡萄の根が養分を求め地中深くまで伸びるよう競争させる。また、畑には常に風が吹き抜け、葡萄は衛生的に保たれるため、化学薬品をほとんど用いずに栽培を行うことが可能で、必要に迫られるような特別なことがなければ、まず化学薬品を用いることはない。
コスタ・マリーナとサルティーコラ、２つの畑のワインを別々に瓶詰め。これらの畑のある丘は粘土質が豊富で、ローマ帝国の時代からここで葡萄栽培が行われてきた。
コスタ・マリーナは平均樹齢30～35年で東南向き、サルティーコラは平均樹齢40年で東～東南向き。いずれ劣らぬ素晴らしいヴェルメンティーノを産出している。
エスプレッソ誌にて、2009年ヴィンテージではコスタ・マリーナが18/20でリグーリア最高得点を獲得、2006年ヴィンテージではサルティーコラが18.5/20でリグーリア最高得点を獲得と、それぞれに最高の評価を受けている。また、その純粋で力強い味わいはイタリアワインの帝王、アンジェロ・ガヤをも虜にしたと言う。
今や、ピエモンテだけでなく、ボルゲリにもワイナリーを所有しているガヤ。彼がボルゲリ近くのレストランで必ず飲むのが、オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキのコスタ・マリーナなのだと、、、。
●コッリ・ディ・ルーニ・ヴェルメンティーノ・コスタ・マリーナ 2010 オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキ
Colli di Luni Vermentino Costa Marina 2010 Ottaviano Lambruschi
▽750ml/イタリア・リグーリア産/白ワイン
▽D.O.C. コッリ・ディ・ルーニ
▽葡萄品種：ヴェルメンティーノ100％
▽ステンレスタンクにて熟成
オッタヴィアーノ・ランブルスキが造るヴェルメンティーノ。そのいずれもリグーリアで最高水準のワインに数えられる。
標高220m、平均樹齢30～35年で東南向きの畑、コスタ・マリーナのワイン。
金色がかった輝きのある麦わら色。白桃や柑橘類のボリュームのある果実香に、ハーブやナッツのニュアンス。
オイリーな質感を持ち、ミネラル、酸ともに充実。豊潤な果実味を受け止めるしっかりとした骨格を備えている。
鮮やかで複雑なアロマが口中で繰り返され、余韻が上品に長く続く。
ボリュームのある果実味を豊かな酸が引き締め、絶妙にバランスが取れており、この地のヴェルメンティーノならではの力強さと繊細さがしっかり表現されている。
リグーリアの白の最高峰と言われるが、納得した。
●Vermentino dei Colli di Luni: An exciting Tosco-Ligurian White Wine
Kyle Phillips, Italian Food Guide
VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI is one of Italy's so-called lesser white wines. Quite lesser; Antonio Piccinardi doesn't even mention it in his 650 page Dizionario dei Vini Italiani. This is actually a rather serious oversight on Mr. Piccinardi's part; Vermentino can have tremendous personality and finesse, and offers a refreshing change of pace from the far more common Pinot Grigios, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs one finds in stores and restaurants.
Unfortunately, if you're in Italy and want to try Vermentino dei Colli di Luni you can either go to one of the best restaurants in town and hope its wine list is ample enough, or drive down to La Spezia, in Liguria -- as I did. You won't be disappointed; though the region is best known for the Cinque Terre (5 very pretty coastal towns just north of La Spezia, and also a white wine) there are many other things to see as well. Inland there's Tuscany and the Lunigiana region, a wild area with fortresses on almost every hill and enchanting Romanesque churches; there's also the Museo delle Stele (odd prehistoric statues) in Pontremoli and the Museo Etnografico in Villafranca in Lunigiana. To the south, along the Tuscan coast, there's Carrara, with its marble quarries, Massa, with more quarries, and a host of other attractions, including Versilia (an excellent area to work on a tan, with many fine restaurants) and Pietrasanta, where you can visit the studios where artisans transform the ideas of the world's great sculptors into finished pieces.
Returning to Vermentino, according to Antonio Piccinardi the grape is probably of Spanish origin; the Spaniards exported it to their possessions in Sardegna and Corsica, where Ligurian sailors took cuttings to take home and plant. It has adapted quite well to its new homeland, producing wines of considerable character and finesse. Though wine merchants have long been aware of this, the general public has not, because until quite recently Vermentino was mixed into other more lackluster wines to give them personality. Things began to change in the early 1980s when forward-looking producers decided make their Vermentino in purezza (by itself) and bottle it themselves; by the late 1980s Vermentino dei Colli di Luni received DOC status, and now the number of producers bottling has increased considerably.
Since many are new to bottling, and all are investing heavily to increase quality, things are very much in a state of flux -- a producer whose wines were nothing special last year can prove to be an extremely pleasant surprise this year. Most of the wines are fermented in steel, though a couple of producers are also experimenting with barrel fermentation. I have mixed feelings about this, because Vermentino is an extremely aromatic grape, producing wines with have charmingly nuanced bouquets. The bouquets of the barrel fermented Vermentini I have tasted do display the bitter almond overtones characteristic of Vermentino, but the other components -- floral notes, apples, apricots, strawberries, bell pepper, white pepper, and many more -- are drowned out by the vanilla from the barrique. Likewise, the complexities on the palate are overshadowed by the wood. Nobody I talked with is experimenting with the addition of extra-regional varietals, such as Chardonnay, primarily because they say the Vermentino would be overshadowed by the other grapes.
While in the area I visited three producers: Lambruschi, Giacomelli and Il Monticello. Of the three Lambruschi is perhaps the most famous -- Ottaviano Lambruschi quit his job in the quarries and planted a vineyard in 1973, and was one of the first producers to bottle, in 1982. Roberto Giacomelli's family has been making wine for generations, but began bottling when he joined the business in 1992. Monticello's Davide and Alessandro Neri discovered they'd inherited a way of life as well as a vineyard when everybody who had received a bottle of their first vintage as a Christmas gift came back for more. The Wines:
■シロ・パチェンティ（Siro Pacenti）
http://www.siropacenti.it/
熟成にフレンチオークの小樽を用いる現代的な造り手の中でも、人気の高いシロ・パチェンティのブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ。
北部と南部、それぞれにテロワールの異なる２つの畑を所有し、ブレンドすることでより調和のとれた高いレベルのワインを生み出している。
フレンチオークのバリックを使用して24カ月熟成。現代的なスタイルのブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノの頂点に位置する造り手だ。
凝縮した果実の味わいがありながら、きめが整ったシルキーな質感を持ち、パワフルかつエレガント。極めて完成度の高いワインを造る。
●ブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ 1999 シロ・パチェンティ
Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Siro Pacenti
▽750ml/イタリア・トスカーナ産/赤ワイン
▽D.O.C.G.ブルネッロ・ディ・モンタルチーノ
▽葡萄品種：ブルネッロ（＝サンジョヴェーゼ・グロッソ100％）
凝縮された濃厚な果実の味わいがありながら、きめが整い、高いレベルでバランスが取れている優れた赤ワイン。パワフルかつエレガント、極めて完成度の高いワインであり、モダンなブルネッロの最高峰の１つと言われるだけの事はある。
●ABOUT US
The medieval hill town is situated at 500 metres of altitude, and commands extraordinary views of the surrounding plains and hills. The Siro Pacenti winery is located just below the town, to its north-east.
The vineyards are divided into seven separate plots (of equally high quality, but each retaining its own individual charateristics). About one-third are positioned around the casa colonica that is the headquarters of the estate; the rest are located about 20 kms further south, on the other side of the group of hills that Montalcino commands. Altogether these make up the 20 hectares of Sangiovese (Tuscany’s principal grape variety, and Brunello’s ‘heart’) that Giancarlo Pacenti uses to produce his 60.000 bottles per year, divided between Brunello di Montalcino (the ‘first’ wine) and Rosso di Montalcino (the ‘second’).
The total estate comprises 60 hectares, of which 20 are cultivated with cereal crops, 20 are divided between olive groves and woods, and the final third are given over to the vineyards. Of these, 18.5 are registered to the Brunello di Montacino DOCG appellation; 1.5 to the Rosso di Motalcino DOC, and 0.5 to the newer Sant’Antimo DOC.
The vineyards closest to the winery (circa 7 hectares) are on the hill that slopes gently down from the house to the main road. Here the vineyards alternate with cereal crops in a checker-board pattern. The second piece of land is reached by passing the remarkable Romanesque abbey, Sant’Antimo. The road opens out to reveal Mount Amiata, then bends to the south around the hill on which Montalcino stands. Here there are 20 hectares, of which 13 are planted to vines: 5 little ‘parcels’ situated at altitudes of between 330 and 150 metres.
○Rosso di Montalcino DOC Siro Pacenti
The grapes that go into the Rosso are exactly the same as those used for the Brunello. The decision is taken about which wine to use them for only after the vinification has been completed, and a lot of thoughtful tasting has taken place. Around 30.000 bottles are usually produced of the Rosso; they go onto the market in the second March after the harvest. However, there are some exceptions: in the difficult 2002 vintage, which was plagued by bad weather, Pacenti decided not to make any Brunello, but to concentrate the best wine in a high quality Rosso.
○Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Siro Pacenti
Pacenti’s Brunello di Montalcino is a great Sangiovese, and a true reflection of the potential of the estate’s terroir. Clearly, everything begins with meticulous selection in the vineyard of the best bunches. Each lot is then harvested, vinified and aged separately.
About 13 months after the harvest, Pacenti and Glories taste the results of these separate vinifications, and decide on the final assemblage. Then the Brunello goes on to complete its 24 months of barrel-aging in French barriques. 18 months of bottle-fining follows.
Annual production of Brunello is around 30.000 bottles. Out of the 1990 end 2004 vintages, Pacenti has also produced a very limited quantities of bottles, of a special Cru, “SP” ,coming from a single north vine planted by Siro Pacenti beginning 1970 .
と言う具合です。
今晩も、面白いのを頂こうと思う。
なので、勢い込んで抜栓。
悪くない。
それでは、今晩、、、宜しくね！
＼(^_^=^_^)／ ♪！