朝一
今日の波は腹、セットで胸～頭ぐらいのファンウエーブ。朝6時30分から8時までしか入れなかったけど、人も少なくて十分楽しめたので満足、満足。
Today's wave were waist high
and chest to head high with occasional sets. I just did
surfing from 6:30am to 8am but I could enjoy to surf very much because there were not many surfers in the
early morning.