I got some drone footage of me and my wife surfing.
Usually it's me critiquing other's surfers videos, but this time I get to critic myself !
Please watch the video here from Surf&Drone.
#1 clip at :26
Foot Drag to set up a Fade Left Go Right Bottom turn. This has a functional use a it helps to turn the board without leaning over on the rail too much.
Since in a milisecond, I will be rolling over from the flat bottom to Right rail.
#2 clip at :42
Two beginner kooks where sitting in the pit. One of them on the red board blocked my wife as she tried to get on the wave. No sorry, nothing.
#3 clip at 1:18
Kook revenge. They kept dropping in or paddled in front as we were going for waves. So you got to cut tight to freeze them in their tracks.
And if need be spray them.
They got the hint and moved out of the line up.
#4 clip at 2.23
Layback cutback. Coming off the face and someone is paddling over the shoulder......
You got to get way back over the tail and use your backhand to act as a pivot point and anchor. There's no room to do a normal cutback, kick out or straighten out.
#5 clip at 4:37
Frontside Helicopter. On the nose in a Hang-5. You can see the white water standing up down the line.
Wave shuts down / closing out in front. I could kick out, but might as well let the center fin release and let the tail spin around.
Then let it re-engage and you are back straight again to ride some more.
#6 clip at 6:04
Backside Helicopter. Coming down the line backside grabbing rail to hold my inside rail into the face of the wave.
But again, the wave closes out. This time I can use that same back hand to yank the board around.
You got the get the fin out, but not sink the nose too much.
Then move back to the center of the board to engage the fin and begin trimming again.
It may all just look like " TRICKS ", but those maneuvers do have a functional purpose.
Main thing in surfing is to have FUN !
Thank you Taka at Surf&Drone for the awesome close up footage.