When it comes to surfing, some beginners pick up the sport quite easily, some not so much and don't get accepted by the locals.
Maybe it's because they just don't FIT IN.
Rider has the basics of paddling and popping up, but he still hasn't learned how to "FIT IN".
Rider has gotten to her feet but her board is underwater. "Look DOWN go DOWN" is part of the reason, but the main reason she can't " FIT IN " is the direction she chose to take.
Long boards have more stabilty and float for the beginners to learn on. But the usual length of 9 feet does make it hard to fit into certain waves, like Beach Breaks.
This surfer is not a beginner, yet she is having a hard time keeping the nose up.
( her board is a classic 50/50 rail single fin with not much rocker )
If you choose to ride a bigger board in quick dumping beach break waves, you have to be very aware of the close out.
Even though she is on the tail and trimming across the face, her nose stills " Slaps ".
But most of the time the nose "slaps" or "pearls" is because the rider is going too straight.
Like putting a square peg in a round hole, it just doesn't fit.
She has to:
#1 Bottom turn after the take off
#2 Angle in her take off
Either of which she may not have the skill yet to do.
Another reason is the beginners take off too close to the center of the breaking lip. The wave breaks from the center outwards. The peak is the most steep, quick and powerful. That is why most beginners take off on the softer shoulder of the wave.
And if you take off going into the curl, instead of away from it, you are bound to not fit your board into the curvature of the wave.
Rider is a Regular footer that commonly have a easier time going to the Right, But the side of the wave he is taking off on, is breaking Left. He is working AGAINST the wave, not WITH it.
Yet sometimes, it's not the beginner on the wave fault, it is the fault of the beginner getting in the way.
She probably could have made the drop, but to avoid running over the other surfer, she was forced to turn down.
And now the board is not FITTING IN. Good Bye.
Do you " FIT IN " at your local surf break ?
Please check out Hope Cheng Photos, Matsunosuke Kugenuma on FB and http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more.