Curator yvonne markowitz talks about mfa Q.What is the new exhibit organizing
principle? A.The goal is to highlight our own collection, including some pieces
never before on view. A.The goal has always been to put these objects in the
cultural context in which they were made.You find several hundred pieces in the
new american wing, for instance.In our ancient galleries we have jewelry
alongside ceramics and sculpture.The mfa has been on the forefront of this type
of integration.In many other museums, jewelry is the bastard child of the
decorative arts, given only a case or two in a single room. A.Jewelry is mostly
associated with women, a prejudice that wasn true of ancient cultures.Also,
jewelry associated with big houses like tiffany and cartier has never been
actively sought by fine arts museums.Until recently, even mfa trustees
rightfully questioned why we purchase, say, a platinum and emerald brooch worn
by heiress marjorie merriweather post.With this brooch comes a whole history,
though:How it was purchased, who from, etc.Because we an arts museum, provenance
is extremely important. Q.What exactly is studio jewelry? A.People who make
studio jewelry see themselves as artists first.Many have also had careers in
other artistic fields, alexander Pandora Bracelets
Australia
calder being a good example.Their pieces are usually made in
small studios and sold in galleries.Some are even made of paper or plastic.In
general, studio artists deemphasize materials and stay away from diamonds and
platinum. Q.Tell us a story or two behind some of the exhibit pieces. A.We have
a diamond necklace given by sam colt to his wife in 1856.Colt was a good friend
of charles tiffany and one of the 10 wealthiest americans in his day.It among
the oldest surviving americanmade diamond necklaces.There also a gold, diamond,
and enamel brooch, with matching earrings, owned by mary todd
lincoln.Mrs.Lincoln was a shopaholic who got lots of bad press, especially in
1867, when she was left incredibly in debt and was forced to sell off jewelry,
clothing, and furniture.Unfortunately, the sale did very poorly and did not help
her much. Q.Will jewelry get more respect with an institution like the mfa
creating a gallery and curatorship dedicated to it? A.It will get a lot more
exposure, certainly.It a matter of education. Q.Jewelry has long been an
expression of wealth and status.What different today? A.For one thing, starting
with 1960s, men are wearing more jewelry.They especially passionate about their
watches, which now do everything but think for you. Q.Do you get to borrow any
pieces from the mfa collection to wear? A.I afraid not [laughs].But i have a
great job.I get to handle beautiful objects and make recommendations on
acquisitions i think are important. Q.Will the exhibit appeal to someone who not
necessarily impressed by expensive baubles? A.Well, it does include a couple of
pieces that intellectually challenge the importance of costly materials, the
traditional status value that jewelry has.One piece is a rubber bracelet titled
makes you blind.It was done by a dutch artist who said, wanted to get rid of the
power gold has over people, so i covering it up.But i telling you there gold
underneath(The rubber).If you can see it, is it still as valuable?Another is a
wire bracelet in the shape of a faceted stone, called are a girl best
friend.Where the diamonds would normally be is an empty, negative space.There a
lot of intellectual playing around going on here. Whoyvonne
markowitzwhatmarkowitz is the museum of fine arts rita j.Kaplan and susan
b.Kaplan curator of jewelry and organizer of the gems, and treasures exhibit
Nandora
currently on view at
the mfa.The show highlights 75 objects culled from the museum vast collection
ranging from ancient nubian and egyptian ornaments to 20thcentury studio jewelry
plus many pieces on loan for the show, including enameled cuff bracelets
belonging to coco chanel.An egyptologist by training, markowitz is the first to
hold an mfa curatorship in jewelry.The exhibit runs through nov.1, 2012.