knowledge from the first attempt, therefore not onsight. Robert Durran - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to tom_in_edinburgh: > OR: the attempt was over when he untied the rope and walked away. When he went back it was another attempt with knowledge from the first attempt, therefore not onsight.The key fact is that the knowledge was gained by the climber on lead without weighting any gear. So would it have been ok if he hadn't untied and just stood there for ages? When I climb back to the ground during an onsight attempt, I'll almost always untie to walk away and get a better perspective, have something to drink or eat and a proper rest, and whether I get back on the rock after 2 minutes or another year when I'm going better is completely irrelevant.Post edited at 12:31 Enty - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to tom_in_edinburgh: > OR: the attempt was over when he untied the rope and walked away. When he went back it was another attempt with knowledge from the first attempt, therefore not onsight.???E Dan Arkle - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to Enty: Here is a Gresham article on ethics for y'all.http://web.archive.org/web/20081015071844/http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=1...(supports downclimbing to ground, no word on ascents over several days!) Blue Straggler - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to Enty: Maybe the onsight is retained only if something physical (i.e. rockfall) happens to the route during the rest :-)Honestly some of the replies here remind me of The Pathetic Sharks in Viz! tom_in_edinburgh - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to Enty: > ???Like it says in the Gresham article the key thing is 'on your first go'. The question being when does the 'first go' stop if you climb down to the ground.For me, as soon as you conclude 'I'm not going to get this today' and walk away you have ended your 'first go'. Arguably your incomplete 'go' on the first route should also be considered abandoned as soon as you have a go on another route.Post edited at 13:42 DubyaJamesDubya - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:Your 'go' finishes when you fail. You fail when you weight the gear.So let's do the extremes thing:You rock up to do the route (Main Wall say). You start to climb, you're maybe 6ft up, suddenly it starts to hammer down, you scuttle off the crag, eventually you give up and go home. Somewhere between one day and 40 years later you come back, just as you start someone shouts 'I remember you trying that once before, you've blown the onsight''I don't think so you reply' or maybe you say 'oh yes you are right, thanks for that'.Post edited at 15:11 Enty - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to DubyaJamesDubya: Yep. By the way I've given up....E tom_in_edinburgh - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to DubyaJamesDubya: > Your 'go' finishes when you fail. You fail when you weight the gear.> So let's do the extremes thing:So if the crux is close enough to the ground to jump off and hit the ground before the rope goes tight you can have as many goes as you like? tcashmore - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to MichaelGallimore: I think the important point is that you hogged the route by leaving your gear and ropes in place which one could consider as not very 'ethical'! DubyaJamesDubya - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:> (In reply to DubyaJamesDubya)> > [...]> > [...]> > So if the crux is close enough to the ground to jump off and hit the ground before the rope goes tight you can have as many
goes as you like?Err I think they call that bouldering out the start. A lot of Gritstone is like this :-)If you want to climb to 1"" from the top and reverse back down then climb it again I would call it strange but onsightPost edited at 15:58 DubyaJamesDubya - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to Enty: I'm getting there,Nike Free 3.0 V4 UK... Robert Durran - on 19 Aug 2014In reply to tom_in_edinburgh: >,Nike Free Run 3.0 V4 Sapphire Blue Reflect Silver; Like it says in the Gresham article the key thing is ',Nike Free 3.0 V3 Womens;on your first go'. The question being when does the 'first go' stop if you climb down to the ground.He c