Been a ridiculously long time, but here, finally, is the 4th post on NK (yes, incredibly, we still have one more to write).
久々の更新になってしまいましたが・・・北朝鮮旅行記その４です！
Day 6 of the tour. Despite the on-going hard schedule, today’s assembly time was another rude, early morning hour. The day before, Mr Chang, our English-speaking guide, made it a big point that we not be late this morning. Why all the fuss? Because the first place we were to visit was none other than the Kumsusan Memorial Palace—Kim Il Sung’s Mausoleum, that’s why. This is the place where the body of the People’s beloved eternal president, Kim Il Sung, rests in state. Visits by foreigners must be approved by the authorities well in advance, and you get the distinct impression that guides who bring their groups late might find themselves on the receiving end of some re-education. So you can’t blame party member Chang for being a tad anxious. That went for the dress code as well, which, needless to say, also applied to foreigners. No jeans, beach sandals, exposure of skin (ladies), etc. That morning the two guides gave all us the once over—just like school again. Due to the length of our trip, for pants Esshie had nothing other than one pair of blue jeans and one pair of black jeans, and upon showing up in the black pair was met with a rather sour look from the guides. Esshie implored that she really had nothing else, and was finally permitted to go with a look that expressed utter hopelessness. Just another ignorant Imperialist Aggressor. Sigh.
北朝鮮ツアー６日目。連日のハードスケジュールにもかかわらず、この日の朝も集合時間は早朝。前日、英語ガイドのチャンさんは、朝の集合時間には絶対遅れないようにといつもにもまして口を酸っぱくして言っておりました。なぜなら、この日、朝一番で見学する場所が、故・金日成主席の遺体が安置されている、錦繍山（クムスサン）記念宮殿だから。そこは、北朝鮮の国民が永遠の主席として愛してやまない金日成のご遺体が安置されている場所。ここに観光客を連れてくるには、当局に事前から訪問時刻を予約し、その時間に遅れると、ガイドがお咎めを受けるらしい。労働党員のチャンさんが焦るのも仕方ない。しかも、この記念宮殿に入るには、外国人を含め、すべての入場者にドレスコードがある。女性は肌を露出するものはダメ、青いジーンズはダメ、ビーサンもダメ。ということで、当日の朝はガイド２人による服装チェックもあった。私は長旅で青ジーンズと黒ジーンズの２本しか持っていなかったので、黒ジーンズで参加しようとしたが、ガイドさんは渋いかお。これしか着るものがないのよと言ったら、「まあ仕方ない」といった顔でお許しをもらった。
Kumsusan Memorial Palace/錦繍山（クムスサン）記念宮殿
The Palace is located in Pyongyang, and actually housed Kim Il Sung’s main working and living quarters, and like all other palaces of men of the People, the white building is a gigantic thing, easily covering the space of several airfields. And just so as there is no mistaking it, smack in the middle of the exterior is the largest portrait I’ve ever seen of the man himself. The airfield comparison is apt also because security is just off the charts here, making for a very tense atmosphere. There were a large number of groups, both domestic and foreign, and we were all herded double file to await orders from our handlers as to how and when we could proceed. When we did finally get moving, it seemed only to be along one after another, endless moving walkways and escalators, all completely unnecessary. It was only upon making it to the main building that we were made to give up all items on our persons. And that included, unfortunately, our camera, so no pictures. Then it was yet more moving walkways and even some kind of bizarre air-blowing device until we got to the business part of the Palace, the basement.
平壌にあるこの錦繍山（クムスサン）記念宮殿は、もともと金日成が仕事・生活をしていた宮殿で、「ここは飛行場か！」と突っ込みたくなるくらいだだっ広い敷地に、これまた巨大な白い建物が建っている。そして中央には巨大な金日成首席の肖像画。この記念宮殿は、警備が非常に厳重で、雰囲気も物々しく、緊張する。私たちのほかにも地元や海外からの団体客がたくさんいて、係員の指示で２列に整列させられ、進めと指示されるまで待つ。そこから進むと、さらに長い動く歩道とエスカレーターを使って進む。やっと建物の中にたどり着くと、次は荷物をすべて預ける。内部の写真撮影は禁止なので、ここでカメラも預けなければいけない（残念）。その後もさらに長い「動く歩道」を進み、そしてエアシャワーのような部屋で風を吹きかけられたあと、やっと建物本体の地下に到着。
First thing to greet us was white statue of Kim Il Sung that was, strangely, huge. Then, after making us line up single file, our guide said, with a straight face, “now, here, without bowing, do just gaze upon the face of the President”. And so with some encouragement from the glaring security officers (Red Guard?), we stood and stared. After that it was up another appropriately scaled staircase until we were facing the body of the President. There he was, lying in a glass case dressed in suit and tie and covered with a revolutionary red cloth from chest to toe. The viewing process was to proceed single file from left to right round the head without stopping, though along the way 4 or 5 people did stop to bow, on both sides. Not a few of the NK viewers were sobbing. There we spotted a group appearing to be Japan-resident North Koreans. They were all sporting suits that are all the fashion in Japan, but adorned by a Kim Il Sung badge. So, what were these guys from such a well-to-do country thinking upon visiting the impoverished dictatorship—that was the question. In any event, the viewing complete, after checking out (like we had a choice) some oversized electronic board indicating all the countries visited by the eternal president, some display of various well-known newspapers like the Daily Worker and Socialist Times doing their mortal best to recount the feats of the forever president, an actual private railway car used by the enduring president, and, well you get the picture (figuratively of course, because no cameras allowed), it was just another ridiculously long escalator and walkway until we were at last out of the Palace. Lucky for us, there was even a designated place to take commemorative photographs in the square outside. What a relief.
最初に私たちを 出迎えたのが、巨大な白い金日成像。像の前で私たちを1列に並ばせると、「ここではおじぎをせず、ただ主席のお顔を見つめてください」とガイド。眼光鋭い 警備員（軍人？）ににらまれつつ、お顔を見上げる。その後、巨大な大理石の階段をのぼると、ついに金日成の遺体と対面。ガラスの箱に横たわる金日成は、背広を着てネ クタイを締め、胸の下から足先までは赤い布で包まれている。全員1列に並んで、遺体の左側から頭の方を回って右側へと、立ち止まらずに歩きながら見学す るが、途中、遺体の両側で4，5人ずつ立ち止まってお辞儀する。北朝鮮の見学者はすすりないている。ここで、在日朝鮮人らしき団体を見かけた。今どきの日 本でよく見かけるスリムなスーツを身につけているけれど、みんな胸には金日成のバッジ。自由で豊かな国、日本に住んでいながら、この貧しい独裁主義国家を見て彼ら は何を思うのだろうか・・・。遺体見学後は、金日成が訪れた国々を表す大がかりな電光掲示板、金日成をたたえた記事が載っている各国新聞の展示、金日成専 用の電車車両などを見て回り、また長～いエスカレーターと動く歩道を使って、やっと建物を出た。建物の前の広場へ行くと、北朝鮮の団体客の記念撮影スポッ トらしく、みんな記念撮影をしていた。
Get ‘em while there’s still a NK/国が崩壊する前に撮影しとかなきゃ
NK’s peach fuzz regiment/軍人・・・？中学生にしかみえないケド
Next, the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery, home to the graves, tombs, and busts of various anti-Japanese guerillas, soldiers, and members of Kim Il Sung’s family. Oh, and it’s a really, really big place. No expense was spared here. Farthest back, at the highest point is the tomb of Kim Jong Suk, Kim Il Sung’s first wife, and Kim Jong Il’s mother: Heroine of the Anti-Japanese Revolution, no less. Here flowers were to be offered. It also happened that the Japan-resident North Koreans we saw at the Palace were here as well, and so Esshie took the chance to talk to them. Turns out they were from Tokyo and planned to stay here for something like a few weeks. But whether they weren’t thrilled at talking to a Japanese or caught the prying eyes of our guide, they didn’t seem to be in too much of a chatty mood, and so it pretty much fell flat.
次は、大成山（テソンサン）革命烈士陵。ここは、金日成の親族や、共に抗日ゲリラ活動をした人々（北朝鮮人にとってのヒーロー、ヒロイン）のお墓と胸像が並んでいる。またここの敷地の広いこと。こういう場所にはお金を惜しまないんだなあ。一番奥のいちばん高いところに金日成の奥さんであり、金正日の母である、金正淑のお墓があり、そこにまた花を買って供える。ここで、錦繍山（クムスサン）記念宮殿で見かけた在日朝鮮人の団体がいたので、話しかけてみた。彼らは東京の小平市からきた人たちで、数週間の予定で滞在するとか。でも日本人の私と話すことはあまりうれしくないのか、ガイドの目を気にしてか、あまり話したくなさそうだったので、詳しい話は聞けなかった。
the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery/大成山（テソンサン）革命烈士陵
Bronzed DPRK Heros/北朝鮮のヒーローたち
Tomb of Kim Jong Suk/金正淑のお墓
Next up the mouthful “Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum”. What’s the “Fatherland Liberation War” you might ask (I did)? Turns out it’s what we mistakenly refer to as the “Korean War”. You see, since North Korea defeated the American Imperialist Aggressors in this war, this is the correct name. Upon entering, surprise, an oversized wall painting of that same permanent president and the People. Then it was to exhibits featuring things left by and taken from the invading Americans by the NK People’s Army with no help whatsoever from any other countries, especially China or Russia: weapons, tanks, fighter planes, submarines, victory, sense of self-worth, etc. Last we were taken to some oval-shaped room with a 360 degree wall painting depicting the “outbreak” of the war and a rotating observation platform from which to watch the whole thing. Fitting the general there, the scenes feature the NK People suffering from a brutal surprise attack by the Americans, courageous members of the NK People’s Army confronting the American aggressors, and weak, pathetic American soldiers wilting under the NK onslaught. Wondering why there weren’t any photographs documenting such glorious scenes (there being apparently so many such battles), the woman officer told me that indeed there were many, downstairs. But then the tour ended without being shown any of those photos. Oh well, I suppose they we just short on time, what with so many other truth-starved foreigners about waiting to get in and all.
次は「祖国解放戦争勝利記念館」。祖国解放戦争というのは、朝鮮戦争のこと。北朝鮮ではアメリカに勝利したことになっているので、このような名前となっている。中に入ると、まずはお決まりの金日成と人民達の大きな壁画がドン。次に、朝鮮戦争中にアメリカから奪った武器、戦車、戦闘機、潜水艦などの展示品を見学。最後は円形の部屋に通された。360度の壁全体に朝鮮戦争勃発時の様子が描かれていて、円形の回転観覧席から絵を眺めるようになっている。壁画には、アメリカに急襲された北朝鮮の人民の苦しみ、そしてアメリカに立ち向かう勇敢な北朝鮮軍、弱々しくとっちめられるアメリカ兵たちなどが細かく描かれている。絵であれば事実をゆがめて描くこともできるわけで、ダンがガイドの女性軍人に「絵じゃなくて、写真はないのですか？」と聞くと、「はいありますよ、下に」と言われた。でもその写真とやらは見せてもらえずに見学終了。わけがわからん。
Welcome!/大な壁画がお出迎え
Uh, some war stuff/無造作に展示された武器
Quite the prop/プロペラが曲った戦闘機
But does she actually believe it?/誇らしげに説明する女性軍人
A picture speaks a thousand words; but a painting tells a better story/360度のパノラマ絵画
See what I mean/絵ならどうとでも描けるよね
By the way, there are no traffic lights in the whole of the capital, Pyongyang. Instead, woman police officers stand on a dais in the middle of the intersection and, by whistle and baton, direct the odd vehicle that passes. There’s a job for everyone here, and it seems that only the young and very beautiful get this one. Oh, but there is a requirement that you move and act so as to resemble some 1950’s B movie robot. The whole group tried desperately to get a good photo of one of these female Chips, but NK roads and our Chinese bus conspired against us. Tour members were then forced to beg the guides (who seemed thoroughly to enjoy same) to let us take some photos from the ground. The guides finally gave in, but not without feebly grumbled something about the officers being at work and not liking much having their pictures taken. Was our good fortune to have the kind of tour mates who don’t take Pravda for an answer.
ところで、平壌市内の交差点には信号がない。その代りに、交差点の真ん中に女性警官が立っていて、笛と棒を使って交通整理をしている。この女性警官たちは、全員若くて美しく、そしてまるで機械のように動く。私たちはバスから彼女たちの姿を写真に収めようと必死だったが、動くバスからいい写真を撮るのは至難の技。そこで、ツアー仲間がガイドに「プリ～ズ！」と何度も頼み込んで、地上から交差点の写真を撮らせてもらえることに！ガイドは渋い顔で「警察官は仕事中に写真を撮られるのは嫌がるんですけどね・・・」とブツブツ。押しの強いツアー仲間がいてありがたかった～。
Strangely, accidents involving male drivers are disproportionately high here
交通整理のおねえさんに見とれて交通事故を起こす男性も多いとか？？
Next up was NK’s “answer” to Hollywood, the “Chosen Art, Film, and Photography Studio.” At the entrance was the reassuring mug of the everlasting president in bronze and an embarrassingly large mosaic. What’s the old saying, “politics and art….” Indeed, Kim Jong Il is apparently something of film buff himself and is even reported to have taken to directing NK films. At this studio there is a Japanese-rule era town, a Chinatown, a South Korea town, a Chosen village, “Western” architectural buildings, and many other open-style sets. There is also a Goryeo (first unified Korean dynasty) era set where you can try on costumes (for a fee). The most interesting part of this trip though was the guide’s remarking that upon visiting here Americans have exclaimed with much wonder “how much better this place is than Hollywood!”, and his seeming bewilderment as to why none of us had quite such an impression giving rise to the suspicion that he actually took the remarks at face value.
次に訪れたのが、北朝鮮のハリウッドともいわれる「朝鮮芸術映画撮影所」。入口にはお決まりの金日成の銅像、そして巨大なモザイク画がある。芸術関係の施設でありながら政治色が濃い。息子である金正日は無類の映画好きであり、映画撮影の指導もやっていたとか。この撮影所には、日本統治時代の街、中華街、韓国の街、朝鮮の農村、西洋建築など、いろいろなオープンセットがある。高麗時代の建物もあり、高麗時代の衣装も着ることができる（有料）。ガイドによると、ここを訪れたアメリカ人が、「ハリウッドよりすごい！」と目を丸くした・・・というエピソードがあるとか。
The mosaic business: DPRK depression proof/お決まりの、巨大銅像とモザイク画
The colourful side of NK: history/高麗のお姫さまにへんし～ん
Japanese colonial era set/日本統治時代の街のオープンセット
China town set/中華街のオープンセット
Old Korea town set/昔の韓国の街を再現したセット
“Western” house set/洋館のセットも
Moving along then to the Mansdae Art Studio, a large studio where all manner of artisans labour to churn out paintings, mosaics, celadon porcelain, and other works. Here we were also able to meet a famous artist whose works have won the praise by none other than Kim Il Sung himself, and we were permitted as well to observe celadon porcelain production in action. Last was a souvenir shop making a rather half-hearted attempt to masquerade as a gallery.
さて次は、万寿台（マンスデ）アートスタジオ。絵画、モザイク画、青磁器などの芸術作品に取り組む芸術家が働く巨大スタジオ。金日成から讃えられた国内の有名画家に会って、絵を見せてもらい、青磁器制作の様子を見せてもらった。最後はお土産屋でショッピングタイム。
Gate of the Holy Trinity, or the Mansdae Art Studio/万寿台（マンスデ）アートスタジオの門
Er…whatever/ここにも銅像・・・
Don’t know what that says but I’m guessing not “enough with the mosaics already!”/そしてモザイク画・・・
Creativity + hard work = work of art/青磁器工房と
Art + politics = this/青磁器を愛でるお二人
The main event followed: a show by pupils of the Mangyondae Schoolchildren’s Palace. This schoolchildren’s palace is presented as a place for NK school kids to pursue extracurricular activities, but what really matters is the building itself: it really does take after some kind of palace. Even more odd was the show to which we were treated: everything from a pro-like musical recital to an elaborate dance performance, and all by kids from 5 to late teens accomplished in things not usually styled as “extra-curricular activities”. It was hard not to be impressed by the near flawless performances. But then with the perfectly uniform mechanical-like movements and plastic smiles, it was not like watching children at all. Taking it all in, it was too easy at the same to image what a mistake might spell for one of these kids. Some palace.
そしてこの日最後のメインイベントは、万景台（マンギョンデ）学生少年宮殿で観る子供たちのショー。この少年宮殿は子供たちが課外活動を行う建物だが、その割には巨大で立派な建物。そしてここではおそらく下は5歳くらいの子供から10代後半の青年たちが、およそ課外活動とは呼べない、プロレベルの音楽演奏やダンスパフォーマンスを見せてくれた。その完璧な出来には単純に感動した。でも、どの子も機械のような動きと作り笑いの表情で完璧に統一されているので、子供らしさがない。この子たちは、この大舞台で間違ってしまったら、あとで大変な目に逢ってしまうのだろうか、と勝手な想像を膨らませてしまうのでした。
Our very un-14-ish, 14-year-old guide/14歳とは思えない、しっかり者のガイドさん
Supper that evening was Italian, yes Italian, at one of Pyongyang’s 2 Italian restaurants. Whilst the interior was anything but “Italian”, both the pasta and the pizza were surprisingly good. From exactly where were they getting the ingredients necessary to make these dishes? Should also note here that this was in fact the first time to eat any kind of Italian food for not only our English guide, Mr Chang, but also for the camera man and the bus driver. They made a good effort of it, though it probably would have been easier to eat the pizza without the metal chopsticks. Even more so since it seems none of them was particularly taken by the taste.
本日の夕食は何とイタリアン。ピョンヤンに2軒あるイタリアンレストランのうちの１軒だ。内装はまったくイタリアっぽくないけれど、出てきたパスタとピザは、とっても美味しくてびっくりした。いったいどこから材料を輸入しているんだろうか。ちなみに、私たちの英語ガイドであるチャンさん（30歳）も、ビデオ撮影者のおじさんも、運転手のオジサンも、今まで一度もイタリア料理を食べた事がなく、食べ方がわからずに金属のお箸で必死にピザを食べていた。残念ながらお味はお気に召さなかったみたい。
There’s a first time for everyting!/ピザ初体験！
Say what you will, but DPRK pizza is good stuff/北朝鮮のピザ、おいしゅうございました。
Next, an Imperialist Aggressor’s heartfelt farewell.
次のポストは、北朝鮮の最終回です。