After leaving Sost, our VIP bus headed north for the actual border at the Khunjerab Pass. Immediately after departure the familiar bumps and gyrations with sheer cliffs as a backdrop started, but after a while we began to notice something new: snow. Only yesterday we were sweltering and sweating like pigs after our grueling attempt at trekking in Passu; today, cold like the middle of winter.
パキスタンのスストを出たバスは、国境線のあるクンジェラブ峠に向かってカラコルム・ハイウェイ（KKH）を北上。スストを出ると、また断崖絶壁のガタガタ道をひたすら走り続け、気づけば外は雪景色。前日、パスー村でトレッキング（もどき）をやった時は、暑くて汗をかいていたのに、今日は突然真冬の寒さ。
Speaking of the VIP bus, the passengers consisted of a very personable Spanish guy named Miguel whom we had first met in Karimabad, two Afghan guys, one of whom had just recently married with a young Tajik-Chinese girl, two Pakistanis, and us. We didn’t know each other’s languages, but after a while on the bus together, we were able to communicate. The mood was good—indeed, the newly married Afghan couldn’t wait to get to China to see his new wife, and was constantly making the most jovial telephone call to her.
ちなみに、バスの乗客は、カリマバードで出会い仲良くなったスペイン人のミゲル君、20歳以上も年下のかわいいタジク系中国人と結婚したばかりのアフガン人男性とその友達、そして2人のパキスタン人、そして私達2人。言葉は分からないけれど、何時間も一緒のバスに乗っている間に、なんとなく言葉を交わすようになった。アフガン人男性は、中国に着くのが待ちきれないという感じで、何度も新妻に電話をかけているのがほほえましかった。
Under the cover of snowfall in the mountains of the Khunjerab Pass we passed from Pakistan to China. And all at once we were greeted with large, bureaucratic Chinese buildings and the ever-present Chinese flag. The dark olive uniforms were also a less than subtle reminder. In the 3 months or so since leaving China last a lot had happened, and with the Olympics approaching we expected some rigmarole at Customs—and the Chinese did not disappoint. Along with all (and I mean all) of the contents of our backpacks, a full body search was performed, and even the data on our laptops was investigated after we were compelled to turn on and log into same. Whole thing took more than 2 hours. They actually confiscated the external hard disk that Dan was carrying. Dan was told that they needed “to examine” it at Tashkurgan (a little of 100 Km from the border), and that he would get it back there. Actually, the guard who was carrying all the confiscated items was taken to Tashkurgan in our VIP bus (seems this is regular practice). Luckily, Dan did receive the hard disk back with no problems at Tashkurgan (for some reason immigration formalities are done here)—must have been because we had already deleted all our previous posts related to China;)
クンジェラブ山脈の雪景色の中、とうとうパキスタンから中国に入る。さっそく立派な中国政府の建物と真っ赤な旗がはためいているのが目に入る。あの深緑色の制服も久しぶりだ。3か月前に中国を出て以来、中国ではいろいろあったし、オリンピックも控えているから、税関でのチェックはさぞや入念に行われるだろうと予想していたが、やはりそうだった。バックパックの中のものは全てチェックされ、本は内容もチェックされるし、パソコンは起動して中のデータまで調べられた。ダンが持っていた外付けハードディスクは取られてしまった！（が、タシュクルガンの入管で無事返してもらえた。）結局全員のチェックが終わったのは約2時間後。長かった～。
Another thing about the crossing: as soon as you hit China the road smoothes out and the rollercoaster ride ends. Also, importantly, the driving side changes from left to right. After about a 2 hour drive through the countryside dotted with Tajik traditional homes and farms, we arrived in Tashkurgan. Well, we arrived at the immigration hall at Tashkurgan. Though we already went through it at Customs at the border, here again our luggage was searched. You get the distinct impression that maybe not everyone gets along in this “autonomous region”. Then again, the female officers at least were all smiles.
中国に入ると、急にきれいな舗装道路になり、バスの揺れがなくなる。進行方向は左側通行から右側通行に。タジク系の人々が暮らす家々を眺めながら、さらに2時間ほど走り、タシュクルガン・タジク自治県に到着。まずは全ての荷物を持って入管の建物に入る。ここで入国審査と再度の荷物検査があった。入国審査のカウンターの中国人女性は入管職員なのににこやかで、とても感じがよかった。
Immigration done, we headed off together with Miguel to find a hotel on foot. Seeing Kanji again was a relief, at least for Dan who’s trying not to forget Japanese completely while on this trip. Esshie on the other hand was relieved just to see women walking on the street after Pakistan. In particular, Tajik girls sport a nice look here in tight skirts and high heels. Actually, looking at them it’s difficult to feel that you’re in China. By the same token,
though, the Han Chinese here are many, and as in Lhasa the impression is that an encouraged migration is well underway.
入国審査も終了し、ミゲル君と一緒にホテルまで歩く。店の看板が漢字で書かれている（中国だから当たり前だけど）。日本語を忘れないよう努力しているダンは「おおー、漢字だ～」と喜ぶ。私は、パキスタンと違って、道を歩いている女性が多くてなんだか安心する。タジク系の女性は、タイトスカートにハイヒールという小奇麗な格好をしている。顔は彫りが深く、見ていると中国にいるような気がしない。しかし、よく見ると漢族の中国人も多く、チベットのラサ同様、ここでも漢族の移住が進んでいるという印象を持った。
That said, it was great to get some Chinese food, and, importantly, some beer. Esshie had chahan (this at least is easy to pronounce); Dan stir-fried noodles; and Miguel noodle soup. We washed it down with a 3 Yuan (40 cent) Xinxiang Beer. Upon being asked where we were from, the shopkeeper had no trouble understanding Spain and Canada for Miguel and Dan, but some trouble with Esshie’s attempt at “Japan” in Chinese. Funnily enough, just at that time there was showing on the tube one of the many Chinese movies that draws a not very subtle parallel between the World War II Japanese soldier and the devil incarnate. One point at the screed and all was understood with a laugh.
それにしても、久しぶりの中華料理とビールは最高！私はチャーハン（中国語で発音できる数少ない料理の一つ）、ダンは焼きそば、ミゲルくんはスープ麺を頼む。そして安い新疆卑酒（ビール）。１瓶たったの3元（約46円）！くうぅうう～うれしい。店の人に、どこから来たのと聞かれ、ミゲル君は「スペイン」、ダンは「カナダ」、そのままで通じる。私は無理して中国語で「日本人（リーベンレン）」と言ったけど、発音がまるでダメなため通じない（涙）。ちょうどその時お店の人たちがテレビで見ていたのが、第二次世界大戦時代、中国人を苦しめる悪い日本人たちが登場するドラマ。それを指さすとすぐにわかってもらえた（笑）。
The next day we got back on the KKH and headed to Kashgar by long-distance bus. Along the way we had to say goodbye to Miguel who got off at the famous Kara Kul Lake. The total trip to Kashgar took about 5 hours. A clear division exists in Kashgar as between the Han Chinese and the Uyghur. Much of the new town is dominated by Han Chinese, and here you will find wide, asphalt roads, large government buildings, and modern department stores and supermarkets. And, of course, walking about this part of town the majority of faces are Han Chinese. In the center there is also the obligatory “People’s Square” and an oversize Mao statute that helps reinforce the message: this is China. Many of the Uyghur live in or closer to the old town, and much of here is a different world populated by Uyghur hat donned men and head scarf wearing women. Most of the homes here are made of mud and interconnected by a series of narrow dirt roads and passageways which eventually lead to the main roads occupied by mosques and all manner of handicraft and food shops that smack of an earlier time.
翌日、再度KKHに戻り、長距離バスでKKHの最終地点カシュガルへ。ミゲル君は途中、カラクル湖という美しい湖で降り、ここでサヨナラ。5時間バスに揺られた後、カシュガルに到着。カシュガルは漢民族街とウイグル人街にはっきりとわかれている。漢民族街は舗装された広い道に沿って、中国政府の新しい建物がずらりと並び、きれいなデパートやスーパーもある。もちろん、街を歩く人々の多くが漢民族。中心部には「人民広場」もあり、「ここは中国
です」と言わんばかりに巨大な毛沢東の像が建っている。そこから少し離れた所には、ウイグル人しか住んでいない旧市街がある。ここはもう別世界。道を歩いているのはウイグル帽の男性とスカーフをかぶった女性。漢民族はほとんど見かけない。迷路のような路地に泥壁の住宅が密集し、大通りにはモスクもあれば、ケバブ屋さん、パン屋さん、帽子屋さんなどが立ち並び、昔ながらの生活を営んでいるように見えた。
Old town of Kashgar/カシュガル旧市街
Speaking of the Uyghur, they are a very friendly lot. Many’s the time that upon seeing Dan, an obvious foreigner, they would call over and approach all smiles. And after 2 millennia on the Silk Road, it is needless to say that they are also very good traders. No sooner had Dan stopped at a hat shop just to browse then the shopkeeper had taken Dan’s usual hat off and replaced it with one of his remarking, “suits you, so you buy?!”. But refusing one hat only lead to the shopkeeper forcing yet another one on Dan. Tough for him, but fun to watch.
ウイグル人はとってもフレンドリー。ひと目で外国人だとわかるダンをみると、声をかけてくる人が多い。それと、シルクロードの要所として栄えていた時代から商売をしていたからか、売るときは押しが強い。ダンが帽子屋で足を止めると、帽子屋の主人は、ダンが見ていた帽子をいきなりダンの頭に乗せて「いいでしょ、これ、買う？」って感じ。いやいや、買わないからとダンが帽子を取ると、「じゃ、これはどうだ」と別の帽子を頭に乗せてくる。ダンは困ってたけど、はたから見てるとおもろかった。
Friendly Uygur people/フレンドリーなウイグル人たち
One of Kashgar’s highlights is the yellow-tiled Id Khar Mosque, the largest mosque in the region. Beautiful, but after Pakistan you can’t help thinking that it is a little small for being the “largest”. Or maybe that it just the result of the impression that the Uyghur are being squeezed somewhat. The Sunday Market in the old town is also a place to see.
Actually, the Sunday Market is open every day, but on other days there are very few people and not much going on, so it does make sense to go on a Sunday.
カシュガルの見どころは、新疆ウイグル自治区最大のモスク、エイティガールモスク。黄色のタイル張りのモスクで、ウイグル人の礼拝の場。でも、パキスタンで見たモスクと比べると、規模は小さい。中国に住むウイグル人の肩身の狭さを物語っているように感じた。旧市街にある日曜市場も見どころの一つだけど、日曜日以外の日に行くと、人もまばらで活気に欠ける。やはり日曜市場は日曜日に行くのがよさそう。
Id Khar Mosque/エイティガールモスク
Sunday Market/日曜市場
A little out of town is another site, the Abakh Hoja Tomb, which we visited by bicycle. Actually, we went too far and had lost our way, but upon asking a Uyghur checkpoint guard for directions, he actually took us to the place and walked back! The tomb was built in the 17th Century by Abakh Hoja who ruled here; the tomb was for him and his family. The tomb is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, and the green tiling is very appealing to the eye. The only drawback is the camel tied up nearby for photo taking. The poor thing kept staring at us as if to say, “please, set me free.” Sad.
街から数キロ離れたところにあるアバク・ホジャ陵墓(Abakh Hoja Tomb)には、自転車を飛ばして行った。途中、行きすぎて、検問中のウイグル人警察に道を聞くと、わざわざ連れて行ってくれた。やさしいー！アバク・ホジャ陵墓は、17世紀にこの地域を支配したイスラム教指導者、アバク・ホジャとその一族のお墓。建物自体は緑色のタイルに覆われたイスラム建築で、とてもきれい。建物の前には観光客の撮影用につながれているラクダ君が。「自由にしてくれー」と訴えているのか、こちらをじっと見つめてくる。なんだか切なくなった。
Abakh Hoja Tomb/アバク・ホジャ陵墓とかわいそうなラクダ君