The magnesium oxide in the copper cable is very susceptible to moisture. Therefore, the production of the cable head and the middle part must ensure that the magnesium oxide is not wet, otherwise the insulation strength of the cable will be reduced.
(1) First use a 500V shaker to measure the insulation resistance, if it is greater than 200MO, it is qualified, otherwise the damp must be driven. The method of dispelling damp is to use a blowtorch to slowly heat the cable from the damp section to the end. The temperature should not be too high, generally not more than 90"C or until the cable sheath fades. After cooling, re-measure the insulation until it is qualified.
(2) Select the end cap type. End capping is suitable for continuous operating temperature of 20~105C and 80~185C. It should be selected according to the location and location of the cable laying.
(3) According to the connection position of the equipment, measure the required cable length and cut it with a hacksaw.
(4) Determine the position of the sealing cup, use a cutter to cut a deep mark on the circumference of the copper skin, the depth is 2/3 of the thickness of the copper skin.
(5) Use pliers or edge cutting pliers to tear at the end of the cable-a small opening, and then put the torn copper pliers into the opening slot of the stripping bar, and then keep the stripping bar and the cable at 45°, around the cable Twist, so that the copper skin of the cable is wound into a spiral shape along the rod until the copper skin is peeled off.
(6) Remove the exposed magnesium oxide, and wipe the core with a dry cloth.
(7) Put the cable terminal bundle head and the brass plate (or aluminum plate) on the cable.
(8) Screw the brass sealing ring vertically on the sheath of the cable end. At the beginning, screw the copper sheath clockwise by hand, and then clamp the knurled base of the sealing cup with pipe pliers, and continue to screw it into the sheath. Leave a buckle on the leather end. It should be noted here that after the sealing cup is fixed, it cannot be screwed in the reverse direction, otherwise it will loosen the sealing cup and affect the sealing.
(9) Remove the metal filaments and other sundries when the sealing cup is tightened. The cleaning should be clean. You can blow it off with a leather tiger and an inflator. Never blow it with your mouth to avoid moisture. Then use a shaker to measure the insulation resistance. Squeeze the paste into the sealing cup in the sealing paste tube. Excessive ointment should be squeezed from one side of the sealed cup to avoid trapping air in the sealed cup, and the mouth of the cup should not be contaminated during the operation.
(10) Pass the big end sleeve through the cup lid, and then pull the big end tightly to the inside of the lid.
(11) Insert the quartz glass cover into the sealing cup, press four pits on the sealing cup with pressing pliers, that is, fix the cup cover and the sealing cup firmly, and then put the wire sleeve on the exposed wire, as shown in the figure after molding 8-86.
(12). Install the wiring terminals. It is relatively simple to use heat-shrinkable tubing to seal the end. The method is to follow the above method after step 7 and cover the heat-shrinkable tubing on the cleaned wire and the adjacent copper skin, and 2/3 of the copper skin On the top, 1/3 is sleeved on the wire.
The specific method is to preheat the copper skin and wires of the cable, and then put on the end sleeve, then use a gentle flame to heat the end sleeve evenly, and slowly move the fire source in the direction of the wire to gradually tighten the sleeve.