If you are focused on being a good Nose rider, you still need to be adept on the Tail.
The wave is ever changing. Sooner or later you will need to cutback, turn up or turn down.
Good surfers understand the wave, where to be, when to speed up or slow down, when to pressure or relax.
Good surfers understand positioning on the board, when to be on the nose, in the center or on the tail.
Everything seems to be fine here.
But what we couldn't see from the first photo was the positioning of her front foot. Her front foot toes are pointed to the rail at 3 o'clock, when they should pointed to 1-2 o'clock to "give" power to the back foot.
With both feet on their heels and her back hand rising above the head, it is a sure sign she is LEANING. ( not Turning )
The big full rail of her classic noserider shape, pushes back against trying to be engaged in the face of the wave. She looses control of the rail and the board kicks out from under her.
( Notice the single fin that was under the water, now becomes another planing surface for the water to grab on to and flip the board )
You may be fully intent on hitting the lip, now that you're riding a shorter high performance board.
But what goes up, still keeps going up, if you don't turn down before the lip. Same for riding a longboard. You can't just get way super far back on the tail, you need to constantly be adjusting/adapting.
You may have purchased a Nose rider focused board like this old school " PIG " shape. The PIG shape has a outline where the widest point is back of center. Those types of board you really need to know how to control the tail.
If not, you will get flung off. These boards you really need to work with the rail, tail, concave. You can not force it.
( which is true of any board, but more so on a PIG shape )
You can't get to the Nose, if you're falling back on your Butt.
Please check out Hope Cheng on FB to see more.