A miter saw is the tool for projects that call for precise lumber as well as moulding cuts-- particularly angles. The device named for cutting miters does so a lot more.
Types of Miter Saws
With a board level on the base of a miter saw, any type of tilted cross the wide face counts as a "miter" on any type of miter saw. Transform the board on its side, location it versus the fencing, and you'll reduce a "bevel." Many saws reduced from 90 to 45 degrees in both instructions, and also some saws can cut up to 55-degree angles.
Saws begin to differ when you look at their blade diameter-- frequently 10 inches or 12 inches. The bigger the blade, the much deeper and broader its maximum cut. Usually, a 10-inch miter saw will cut a 2 x 6 at 90 degrees and also a 2 x 4 at 45 levels; a 12-inch miter saw will reduce a 2 x 8 at 90 degrees and a 2 x 6 at 45 degrees.
Saws also vary by whether the blade arm simply turns (a standard miter saw) or both swings as well as slides (a gliding miter saw). The moving action can cut even wider boards. A 12-inch version, for example, will certainly reduce a 2 x 16 at 90 levels and a 2 x 12 at 45 levels.
Either can end up being a compound saw-- the blade arm both swings at an angle and turns at an angle to the bed of the table to reduce both a bevel as well as miter simultaneously. This is largely made use of to cut crown moulding.
Cutting with a Miter Saw
The cut angle as well as timber density figure out where the blade will certainly call the product. When marking a board, expand the line throughout the supply, go down the blade to the wood to check your alignment, and readjust the board as needed before starting the saw.
When you're cutting a board, rest over half its size on the saw. If the board is too long, stack a couple of scraps next to the saw to support the looming board. For a timesaving service, mount your saw on a saw stand with supports for long supply.
Place the supply versus the fencing at the back of the saw base, as well as hold it with your hands (or a clamp) at least 6 inches from the blade. Never ever cross your arms when operating the saw.
Begin the saw at the top of the operating setting, permit the electric motor to come up to speed up, and bring the saw down right into the wood. When the board is cut completely via, release the trigger and enable the blade to totally quit prior to you increase the blade.
Discover the sorts of cuts you can make with a miter saw. View our Do It Yourself Fundamentals video:
2 Time-Savers
You can quicken repeated cuts in two means: Instead of separately determining parts for similar short cuts, mark the component size on a piece of concealing tape connected to the fence. After that eliminate the tape when you're done.
For even greater accuracy, connect a stop block. Affix pieces of double-face rug tape to the back face of a 3/4-inch-thick timber scrap. With the saw unplugged and also the blade down, measure from the blade teeth to a factor on the fence equivalent to the component size. There, press the taped block versus the fencing.
With the end of a board pressed lightly versus the block, make your cut. Each part you reduced after that will certainly be the same size-- just blow away any kind of sawdust that can accumulate against the quit block.
Quick Tips for Miter Saw Success
• Always reduced the factory end from a board before measuring and reducing a part for far better fit and less sanding.
• Let the saw do the job; don't require the blade with the wood.
• Even more teeth equals smoother cuts. Use a blade with greater than 50 teeth for building cuts. For fine cuts, such as moulding, make use of a blade with greater than 90 teeth.
• Treated lumber generally has a higher wetness content than building lumber, so utilize a lower tooth matter even for fine cuts. The open areas between the teeth get rid of the particles as well as placed less pressure on the electric motor.
• Ideally, reduced one angle end of a part before you mark and also cut the opposite end.