Remember that scene from Jurassic Park when the two paleontologists see the herds of living, breathing dinosaurs for the first time? Their eyes widen in disbelief, mouths agape, unable to speak at first.
That's the reaction I had over 30 years ago when I first stepped out of the dense tropical rain forest of Central African Republic's Dzanga-Sangha region into a 30-acre clearing with mineral rich soils known as the "Village of the Elephants." Instantly I was transported into prehistory, with forest elephants of every size, shape and color sucking the mineral salts out of the soil, chasing one another, rolling around in mud-pits and fighting for the best mate or mineral pool. Elsewhere in the clearing, known as the Dzanga Bai, I was awed by bongo, buffalo, sitatunga and hundreds of birds.
This elephant Eden, now a crown jewel in the three-nation , is under attack. Its remote location, combined with effective anti-poaching efforts, have until recently helped it stay out of the severe upswing in poaching across Central Africa. But that isolation is no more: 17 men armed with Kalashnikov rifles recently entered the park and four of them calves collecting as much ivory as possible before disappearing to most likely begin preparing their next attack.
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