Kabuki

It's funny how you try a few things and some you keep doing. On every visit to Japan we travel, we visit museums, we dine out and for a few weeks at a time do things the regular Japanese person does.

A few of these things have become near rituals for me. For example, when in Japan I love to stroll along the Nogawa. I love to vist the open air museum and see a Tokyo Verdy game but my favourite is always to see Kabuki.

I had an idea what to expect. Classic tales from another era and white faces. But that alone wouldn't bring me back so often.

All of the Kabuki I have seen was at the Kabuki-za in Ginza. A great white building with a grand entrance, except we have to use the side entrance because our seats are at the back.

During the show I listen to the English translation. Sometimes I turn it off and try and guess what is happening.

The music makes the setting. The beats of the wooden blocks and the shimasen.

Two parts of Kabuki were a surprise. The first, during the performance at certain specific points an audience member will shout out the name of an actor. In most plays, musicals, opera any comments are usually left until the end. The first time I heard somebody shout out during the play I thought a disturbance was occuring. Now I try and anticipate when the name call will occur.

My other surprise was the sadness of most stories. In the west ( Europe and USA not Osaka) most stories are expected to have a happy ending. Usually the hero gets the girl and solves an evil plan. In Kabuki, I have seen a few with happy endings but usually it is death, deportment or loss of all belongings.

My favourite part of any play was a few years ago. During a production the lead actor stopped acting and turned and began talking to the crowd in a normal voice. He then brought on stage his son and introduced him to the audience.

After the young boy had bowed and exited the stage the play carried on as if nothing had happened. I am pretty sure I saw the boy a few years later in a play.

Rob

He Sells Tea Amongst Other Things.

Western Tokyo, early 1970s.

The young girl was happy. She was more than happy, she was excited. She had purchased a blue budgie and was taking it home.

As she slowly pushed her bicycle she frequently stopped and peered through the small holes designed to allow some air in. She spoke to the budgie and explained it wasn't far to her house and then he would be free of the box. She told him he could spread his wings around the house but must sleep in a cage. She was pleased to see the blue bird sitting in the box. He didn't look too upset with the slight rocking as the box swayed.

At the train track the girl crossed with the usual mixture of school kids, businessmen and housewives. Some chatted together as they went about their routines. For many it was another routine summer's day.

For a few it would be a day they would never forget.

The young girl was half way across the tracks. She was struggling with the bicycle and trying to hold the box. The bumps from the rails caused her to re adjust her grip. Once over the first tracks the bell began to clang indicating a train was coming.

There was plenty of time for people to complete the crossing before the gates came down. However, the little girl froze. She held onto the bicycle and the bird box and stood still. She looked to the west and could see and hear the train thundering in from the Tamagawa. From the opposite direction the train from Shinjuku was building up speed as it left the suburban station.

People waiting at the barriers now realised what had happened. They called out to the girl to stay still. If she stood still the trains would pass on each side of her.

The danger was of the girl being startled by the first train and fleeing into the path of the train from the other direction.

The train from the Tamagawa sounded it's horn. The girl stared at the train as, despite the fact it was braking, it was still an imposing, terrifying sight.

The people from the side of the track pleaded for the girl to stay still. They shouted 'you will be okay if you stay still.' No doubt some too were frozen with horror of the developing drama.

The girl began to back away from the approaching train. With her back to the other train she was in great danger.

And she was edging closer to it.

The bell clanging and the noise of the barriers barely registered with the Tea Shop man. His shop was so close to the crossing he heard this sound every few minutes from 5am to 11pm. What did register was the noise from the crowd outside.

Getting up from his usual position kneeling at the rear entrance of the store he made his way to the door near the crossing. He glanced out and immediately saw the girl, her bicycle and worst of all the oncoming trains.

Without putting on his shoes he was at the barrier in two strides. He leapt them and within another couple of strides was beside the terrified youngster. He knelt down and firmly held the bicycle and the girl. She continued to hold the bird box.

As the first train thundered by and soon after the second the crowd were relieved to see the girl and the man uninjured. A few old ladies clucked over the young girl before helping her on her way.

As the tea shop man walked back to his store no doubt a few people who had missed the scene wondered why he was outside without his shoes on.

Chofu 2001

A Japanese lady and her English husband are on holiday in Japan. They are strolling the streets where she grew up. The lady points out the crossing and tells him of how she was nearly killed there at a young age. As they turn around the tea shop is still there and just as she remembers it as a child.

We go in and are greeted by a lady of about our age. The japanese visitor explains why she has come into the shop and describes the events all those years ago. The tea shop lady is the daughter of our hero. As the visitor describes the story a few tears spill from the eyes of the woman. She explains the man died a few years ago. He had never told anybody about the incident.

The shop is due for demolition to allow the station to be enlarged. The daughter is very grateful the visitor shared the story. The visitor buys some tea but the owner wants to give her the tea but the visitor wants to pay.

The Englishman can not follow the Japanese speech. He see one woman begin to cry, his wife then begins to cry, then tea is placed in a bag and then money is pushed between the two.

On departing the owner of the shop bows deeply and myself and my wife bow equally deeply back.

Everytime we use the crossing I always think about the story. And everytime I imagine the tea shop man looking down from heaven, he watches just to make sure all the kids get across safely and maybe smiles as he watches Kiyomi crossing the track.

Rob

Visiting Japan soon.

Whilst one should refrain from 'wishing your life away' I can not help but be excited by our latest travel plans.

In early April we should be in Japan for a few weeks. Each year we visit for the cherry blossoms. Last year we were a little late, but still saw some of the delicate petals.

On our last visit we spent most of our time in Kichigoji. I was really surprised what a hip area it was. It made Chofu seem quite old fashioned.

This time we will stay in Chofu. I like to ride along the Tamagawa and Nogawa.

On our longer holidays in Japan we often have a short trip to another part of Japan.

In the past we have visited Hokkaido (one of my favourites), Osaka, Kyoto, Atami, and a few other places closer to Tokyo. This time we may visit Nagoya.

Looking forward to returning to Japan. My favourite place to visit.

My wife, Kiyomi, will probably be working for at least half the time. This allows Ana and myself to explore. We usually start the day at Mr Donut. This time we will eat with good health in mind.

Hope to catch up with as many people as possible. On our last visit we met some really nice people. It would be good to get together again.

Rob