I suddenly felt the urge to travel, so I decided to go on a solo trip to Tohoku! This was actually my first real experience exploring the northern part of Japan.
The Logistics Challenge
Once I started researching, I realized how tricky Tohoku can be in terms of transportation. While there are plenty of Shinkansen (bullet train) options, the local train lines connecting the major stations are quite infrequent.
For this trip, I chose two spots: Yamadera (Risshaku-ji Temple), located between Sendai and Yamagata, and Matsushima Bay, just north of Sendai. Both are about an hour from Sendai, but the JR Senzan Line only runs about once an hour!
Digital Success!
I struggled a bit with the online Shinkansen reservations. However, I managed to finally set up my JRE Point ID (goodbye to those annoying daily emails I couldn't stop!) and linked everything—my Ekinet app and Suica card. It feels like a big accomplishment!
Day 1: The Stones of Yamadera
First stop: Yamadera. The landscape is incredible, with buildings carved right into the rocky mountain. I was overwhelmed by the massive rock formations as I climbed the steps. After about 1,000 stairs, I reached the Godaido observation deck, which offers a breathtaking view.
After the hike, I treated myself to Soba-ko Ozenzai (buckwheat mochi in sweet red bean soup) at a cafe in front of the station. Right then, the rain started to drizzle!
Dinner in Sendai
Back at Sendai Station, I headed to "Gyutan Street." I went to a restaurant called Date no Gyutan and ordered the "Gokutsubo Shin-tan" set (the premium thick-cut tongue) for 2,440 yen.
The combination of beef tongue, pickles, tail soup, barley rice, and grated yam (tororo) is honestly the best!
The Guesthouse Experience
Staying alone in a traditional ryokan felt a bit lonely and scary, so I opted for a guesthouse. It was a great choice! It was bright, clean, and very affordable. I think I’ll be a "guesthouse person" from now on.
Day 2: Matsushima Bay
To be honest, the Matsushima sightseeing boat was... okay. I don't think it's a "must-do."
However, I highly recommend the Kokeshi doll painting experience! It’s only 1,500 yen for the three basic colors. It was so much fun that I even bought a professional Kokeshi doll as a souvenir.
Another must-see is Fukuura Island. You cross a long bridge to get there, and the nature is beautiful. You get a perfect view of the various islands that make Matsushima famous.
Oyster Shack Adventure
I tried an Oyster Shack (Kaki-goya)! Pro tip: the places closer to the fishing docks, slightly away from the main tourist area, are cheaper. I managed to eat 13 oysters!
Final Thoughts
I’m the type of person whose mood is easily affected by the weather, so I almost canceled because of the rain forecast. On the first day, the cloudy and rainy weather made me feel a bit down, but the second day turned out cloudy and sunny, which was lovely!
I cleared everything on my to-do list. This trip gave me a boost of confidence—I'm definitely going to travel more often!