RM: After losing the rights to his name in a snag with his old investors, Roland Mouret staged a comeback with a high-end ready-to-wear offering under his new brand, RM by the designer Roland Mouret. The fresh and chic collection, bankrolled by British entertainment mogul Simon Fuller, was a concentrated affair, boiled down to just over 20 looks, which showed Mouret distilling his love of sinuous silhouettes (remember his hit Galaxy dress?) with some of fashion's current fixations - origami folds and volume.
Mouret made these statements his own, exhibiting commendable restraint by tempering his artsy flourishes with sharp tailoring. Starting in black and white, he offered a short linen tuxedo dress with folds fluttering at the hem, a cotton trapeze coat with squared shoulders and an A-line linen coat with origami pleats. Next, silk tweeds were used for a blouson with a contrasting satin collar or a curvaceous skirt with pannier pockets that zipped seductively in back. While Mouret punctuated the collection with decorative details and asymmetric folds, he also offered sculptural dresses that were spare and sexy. It was an admirable new beginning that proved those changes in his business have failed to dull Mouret's sharp touch. yanzic0607.
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