As the first batch of LP86 is on the market now, just wanted to share a small TiDBiD from building and running the very early prototype. I was fortunate enough to receive the 2nd proto type chassis, and 1st in the USA.
With the pan-car like complete new concept...the build is super simple...
My setup with the electronics were pretty simple with Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL60 ESC, Tamiya 15.5T brushless, Yokomo SP-02D Servo (Used) and the original Dlike gyro (NO EPA adjustment).
(*this picture had a Sanwa Servo but was later repalcted with Yokomo)
HOWEVER....I could not get the vibration/shake to go away at neutral regardless of the Servo tune and even much lower gyro gain.
This is somewhat a common problem with 'direct' streering type setup that is becoming popoular recently. Direct steering tied with a rather flexy main deck, and the front suspension that rocks back and forth...there's really not much in the assembly to absorb any 'slop' which makes it easier to create the vibration/shake in the gyro.
The 'old school' way of fixing this...which many has done this during the AWD to RWD days...is to put an O ring on the ballstud connected to the steering. The ballstuds on the front knuckles on the LP86 has a very short neck (3mm?) ...so you will have to find a ballstud with at least a 1mm longer neck to fit the O ring. Yes, this technically will change the length of the linkage to change the Ackerman...so please adjust the linkage accordingly. As there is no 'suspension', this change doe not affect bumpsteer. Make sure the thread on the ballstuds does not stick out too far on the bottom side of the knuckles as it will interfere with the bottom arm.
In my setup...this 'O ring trick' COMPLETELY eliminated the vibration/shake at neutral.
This can be applied to any chassis or steering setup...again...and old trick that people did when gyros and servos were not as advanced and developed for RWD drifting as it is today.
Happy Drifting
April 16th, 2024