Currentry, I began to surf for my hobby.
It's just five minuites from my house to the sea. That is my pleasure.
I guess wave was so calm, but today maybe many locals are coming to the sea.
I had acturely started it since three years ago, but I think I really get down, 'cause for goin' AUSTRALIA.
I bought a longbord, but you think all you don't use it is nothing to mean.olo
Now I'm ganna use a middle. It's so fun more than that, I mean middle-board is contloed by myself.
By the way, since it's so hard from far for doing it, so I have no idea . Lucky me!
I until ain't enough that I do, though, during this season, I hope that I gotta go better than now.

Then see ya'!

最近、サーフィン始めました。うちから海まで5分、朝波を見に行くのは楽しいです。今日はとても穏やかな波でした。地元の人は何人か来てました。
実は、3年前からサーフィンしてますが10月からオーストラリアに行くので本腰を入れて始めました。ロングボードを買っても使わなければ意味がありませんよね。笑 ミドル使ってますがロングよりコントロールできるから乗ってて楽しいです。
遠くから来ている人って大変ですよね?そう考えたらラッキーです。まだ初心者ですが今シーズン中にもっと波に乗れるようになりたいです。

またね!
You think...life is what?

I guess life is when you lost yourself on your way and you wanna talk to somebody else, 'cause you'd love to change it and you are going on.

When you can't go on forward or when you don't wanna go back, you think you might have to do, 'cause then you ain't filled.

If you are involbed something trouble, maybe somebody have to make you help.

you always don't have to make only you force the best.

Maybe you could lean on somebody.

We're not alone.

We stand by you.

We're on your side.

We're company.

Life's going on.