綱敷天満神社と桜井海岸に想いを寄せて
私が生まれ育った今治市桜井には、四季の移ろいとともに表情を変える、心に残る風景があります。
春になると祭りがおこなわれ、綱敷天満神社の境内には色とりどりの屋台が並び、地元の人も旅人も祭りの賑わいに包まれます。
夏には、白い砂浜と透き通る海水が広がる桜井海岸で、ゆったりと海水浴を楽しむことができます。
そして冬には、4000本を超える梅の木が一斉に花開き、あたり一面が甘い香りに満たされる梅祭りが開催されます。
季節ごとに違う魅力を見せてくれるこのエリアで、ぜひゆっくりと流れる時間を味わいながら、桜井ならではの風景を堪能していただきたいです。
I was born and brought up in Sakurai – an area with charming scenery which impresses me through the four seasons.
In spring, during the festival held at the beginning of May, many colorful food stalls line up in the shrine premises, and local people and visitors too enjoy the lively atmosphere.
In summer, many people visit Sakurai Beach known for its 8-kilometer stretch of white sand and clear water.
In early spring, more than 4,000 plum trees bloom all at once, filling the air with a sweet fragrance. A plum blossom festival is held every February.
I recommend you admire the scenery and savor the slow pace of life in Sakurai which exudes a unique charm through the seasons.
“The following text is quoted from ‘Tsunashiki Tenman Shrine – 1125th Commemorative Festival Booklet,’ published by the Tsunashiki Tenman Shrine Patron Association on March 31 2024.
《綱敷天満神社の由緒 History of Tsunashiki Tenman Shrine》
綱敷天満神社は、「天神様」と崇められ。ている菅原道真公をお祀りしている神社です。
901年、道真公はいわれのない罪で突然九州の太宰府へ左遷されることになり、京都から太宰府まで、船に乗り悲痛極まりない旅にでます。
その途中、現在の愛媛 壬生川沖で嵐に遭い、船が転覆しかかっていたところ、桜井の里人たちに救助され、桜井海岸の東端へと漕ぎ寄せます。
その際、住まい(ご座所)を儲けましたが、敷物がなかった為、漁船の綱を丸く巻いて円座の代わりとしてもてなしました。これが「綱敷」のゆらいとなりました。
道真公が太宰府にむけ、出発した後、小さな社に残された御尊像をお祀りし、のちに「素波神」として尊崇しました。この御尊像を御神体としてお祀りしたのが、「綱敷天満神社」なのです。
この神社は愛媛県内で最も大きな天満宮として、受験シーズンには多くの学生さんやそのご家族が参拝にきます。
The Tsunashiki Shrine worships the god of scholarship. His name is Sugawara no Michizane.
In 901, Michizane was unjustly exiled to Dazaifu in Kyushu due to the jealousy of his rival, Fujiwara no Tokihira, and he embarked on a sorrowful journey by boat from Kyoto to Dazaifu.
On the way, Michizane’s boat encountered a storm and nearly capsized near present-day Imabari, and local people from Sakurai rescued him.
At that time, they prepared lodging for Michizane, however there was nothing to cover the bare floor, so the fishermen coiled their boat ropes into a circle as a makeshift mat. This is the origin of the word ‘Tsunashiki’ (rope mat).
After he set off for Dazaifu in Kyushu, the local community started to enshrine a statue he made as a sacred object at a small shrine, and the place developed into what is now known as Tsunashiki Tenmangu Shrine.
The shrine is the largest shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane in Ehime Prefecture. During the entrance exam season, many students and their families visit this shrine to pray for academic success.
《菅原道真とは. Who was Sugawara no Michizane?》
学者、漢詩人、政治家として活躍した平安時代の貴族である。
道真公は幼少期から学問に励み、早くから才能を発揮していました。現代に例えると、9歳の少年(大学課程を9ヶ月を終了)が大学生と共に、講義を聴いている感じですかね！
若くして能力を国政にも注力してきた彼だが当時のライバルによって謂れの罪で太宰府に左遷させられます。
太宰府では、衣食住がままならないまま、生活をしいられ、2年後の903年に亡くなりました。
道真公の死後、様々な災いが京都で起こった。これは、道真公の怨霊だと恐れられた。道真公の霊を鎮めることで平穏をとりもどそうとし、北野天満宮、太宰府天満宮をはじめ、各地で「天神様」として信仰されるようになった。
Michizane was an aristocrat, scholar, poet, and politician 800 years ago.
As a child, Michizane exhibited high intellectual skills, successfully attaining high academic achievements. In modern terms, it would be like a 9-year-old boy attending and completing a university course in 9 months.
He devoted his talent to national politics from a young age, but was transferred from Kyoto to Dazaifu in Kyushu by his rival on a groundless charge.
In Dazaifu, Michizane struggled with inadequate food, clothing, and shelter. He passed away two years later in 903.
After Michizane’s death, various disasters struck Kyoto. People feared that these were caused by his vengeful spirit. So to restore peace, they began to worship him as ‘Tenji (a deity)’ at a shrine named Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto.
《道真公の伝説 The legend of Sugawara no Michizane》
道真公と切っても切れない関係にある動物は、牛です。
本人が丑年だったため、特に可愛がっていました。道真公亡き後、遺体を牛車で運んでいた際、途中でその牛が伏して動かなくなりました。
周囲のものは、「ここで安らかに眠りたいのだ」と思い、この場所を御墓所である太宰府天満宮にしました。
The animal most closely associated with Michizane is the ox.
Michizane was born in the Year of the Ox, so he had a special fondness for oxen. After his death, while his body was being transported on an ox-drawn cart, the ox suddenly stopped and refused to move.
Those around him believed that Michizane wanted to rest peacefully at that spot, so they made it his final resting place. This spot became the location of the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.
境内には「撫牛（なでうし）」と呼ばれる座った牛の像があります。
頭を撫でると知恵を授かり、痛いところを撫でると良くなると言われています。
牛の鼻の色がはげているのは、たくさんの人が願いを込めて撫でてきた証です。
皆さんもぜひ触ってお願いごとをしてみて下さい。
Inside the grounds of the shrine, there is a seated ox statue called Nade Ushi. ‘Nade’ means ‘to caress or touch.’
It is believed that when you touch its head, you receive wisdom, and when you touch the part of the statue that matches where you feel pain, your pain will ease.
You may notice that the color on its nose is worn off.
This is proof that many people have stroked it to gain benefits over the years.
Please try touching it to gain the benefits you desire.
《東西南北にある鳥居 Torii gates in all four directions》
この神社には、東西南北に鳥居があります。これは全国でも珍しいです。
四方に伸びる参道には、それぞれ異なる時代と暮らしの物語が息づいています。
農村の再興から始まった西参道、古くから人々が行き交った南参道。浜の商人たちの奉納で生まれた北参道、そして漁師たちの願いが形になった東参道。
地域の営みが重なり合ってできた、この神社ならではの風景を感じてください。
This shrine has torii gates in all four directions - north, south, east, and west - which is rather unusual in Japan.
Along the shrine paths stretching out in all directions, locals have carried on with their traditions through the ages.
The western gate led to the growing farming village, the south gate was along the liveliest route for locals from ancient times, the north gate was donated by sea-faring merchants and the east gate was built at the request of local fishermen.
Please feel free to explore various sites around and on the shrine premises, which have been shaped by the lives of locals from generation to generation, up until present times.
《百度石 Hyakudo stone》
同一の神社に100回お参りする百度参りの目印となる石。一般には拝殿と百度石を往復して参拝するが、何故かここでは拝殿のすぐ横にある。
This is a stone marker called ‘hyaku-do-ishi.’ ‘Hyaku’ means one hundred and ‘ishi’ means stone. People do a ‘one-hundred-prayer ritual’ here. They walk from the stone to the main shrine and pray, and repeat this ritual one hundred times. No one knows why the stone is placed so close to the main shrine.
《月賦販売発祥記念の碑 Monument Commemorating the Origin of the Installment Payment System》
月賦販売発祥を記念し作られた石碑。
明治期、九州では漆器の食器類を取り揃えておく風習があったが、相当なお金が必要で現金で買うのが難しかったことから考案され、桜井の商人が販売を始めたとされている。
This stone monument was built to commemorate the establishment of the monthly installment payment system.
About 150 years ago, in the Kyushu area, there was a custom of using lacquer tableware. However, it was difficult for people at that time to buy these expensive items in cash, so merchants in Sakurai developed a new payment system, which went on to spread across Japan.
《 松林に中にただずむ熊手の正体とは？ The reason why a rake and a broom stand quietly in the pine forest.》
境内の松林で見かける、熊手や箒。しかも隣接している看板には「私を10分間使用して下さい」。
怪しく見えかねない出立ちだが、実は志島ヶ原の清掃、保全を行う志島ヶ原保護協会が、広すぎて間に合わない清掃を皆でやろう！と設置したもの。
皆さんももしよければ少しの時間でも清掃していただけませんか？
When you walk along the approach to the shrine, you may notice a rake and a broom by a small sign that says,
“Please use us for just ten minutes?”
At first glance, they may seem strange, but in fact, the Local Nature Protection Association placed that sign and those tools there to encourage people to cooperate and help keep the grounds clean.
If you don't mind, could you please spend a little time cleaning up?
《桜井海岸 Sakurai Beach》
綱敷天満神社の東参道鳥居を抜けると、穏やかな瀬戸内海を見ることができます。この海岸は全長8キロメートルにも及びます。白砂青松が特徴の自然海浜として知られています。
Passing through the east torii gate of the shrine, you can see the calm Seto Island Sea. The beach stretches for 8 kilometers and is renowned for its coastline of white sand and green pine trees.
《志島が原と衣干岩Shijima-ga-hara Coast and Koromo-boshi Iwa》
志島が原は、九州太宰府に左遷される際、嵐に遭った道真公が「なんとか陸地に着きたいものだ」と桜井の浜を目指したことから「志島」と名付けられました。
近くには、道真公が上陸の途中に濡れた衣を乾かしたという「衣干岩」があります。
'Shishima’ means ‘Island of Will’ in Japanese. It was named after Michizane, who, during his exile to Dazaifu in Kyushu, faced a storm and determinedly headed for the Sakurai shore, eventually reaching it safely.
Nearby, there’s a rock known as ‘Koromo-boshi-Iwa,” which means “Rock for Drying Clothes.” It’s said that Michizane used this rock to dry his wet clothes when he came ashore.
《志島が原の松林と梅林 The Shishima-ga-hara Pine Forest and Plum Grove》
志島が原の松林は、国の名勝地にも指定されています。約4500本の松が出向かえてくれます。 2月上旬〜3月中旬には白やピンク、赤の梅が花を咲かせます。この時期には梅林会がおこなわれ、.梅の観賞を楽しめます。松林を抜けた桜井海岸の散策等、四季折々の楽しみ方ができます。
The Shishima-ga-hara Pine Forest is a nationally designated scenic spot, home to around 4,500 pine trees.
From early February to mid-March, white, pink, and red plum blossoms bloom here, and you can enjoy the Plum Blossom Festival during this period. You can also explore the Sakurai Coast beyond the pine forest, offering seasonal delights throughout the year.
《 椀船の港 The port for Wan-bune boats》
江戸時代後期より発展した、行商の回船が出入りしていた港。初めは年貢米の運搬だったが、次第に陶磁器や漆器の行商が盛んになり、回船は「椀船」と呼ばれるようになった。現在は堤防跡が残っています。
The port here was used from about 150 years ago, mainly by merchants transporting lacquerware goods in wooden boats.These boats were called ‘Wan-bune,’ which means ‘crockery’ or ‘bowl’ boats.
The boats were originally used to transport rice collected as land tax, but as the lacquerware and ceramics industry prospered, these merchant boats came to be called ‘Wan-bune’.
Now the only part of the port that remains is the seawall.
《素波神社 So-ba Shrine》
道真公が荒波に揉まれながら航海をしている最中に祈り続けて無事桜井に着いたことから、航海中に祈った神を祀っています。「素波」という名も、道真公が名付けました。
On his way to Kyushu, Michizane survived rough seas. He prayed continuously to a certain deity and was able to temporarily take shelter at Sakurai.
So he established a small shrine dedicated to that god.
Michizane himself coined the name ‘So-ba,’ which means ‘calm waves.’