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Each time I see a new place, I privately play the game of, &quot Would I be happy living here permanently?&quot  My reactions for Fiji, mostly happy ones, aren't based entirely on Fiji's miles of white beaches, her rattling palms, the variety of her villages, or the dramatic hill country. I can find these things in dozens of Pacific destinations and, as much as I love most of them, none are choices for my declining years. Fiji has the required qualities - among them, space, and lots of it. Viti Levu, the big island where Suva and Nadi are, has 4,000 square miles. Vanua Levu, the next island in size, has 2,000 square miles. And then there are the smaller ones: Ovalau, Taveuni, Koro, Kandavu, Bau, the Lau group - and hundreds of other tiny dots of land. The people, 700,000 of them, are varied too. There are native Fijians, Polynesians, Indians, Chinese, and a fair sprinkling of expatriate Australians, New Zealanders, English, and Americans. Some of them like me require a city, perhaps 
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