Preface
This blog captures my thoughts and experiences as a middle-aged Japanese man on a 492-kilometer journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, made entirely on foot—without the convenience of Shinkansen or cars.
The route I walked is the Old Tokaido Road, a vital artery of Japan during the Edo period, spanning from 1603 to 1868. Established in 1601 by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, this historic route still bears the echoes of its storied past.
Even today, some 400 years after its establishment, this old road still retains traces of the Edo period here and there, and walking along it, one can feel a sense of old Japan.
It follows the remnants of the Edo period, the era of Samurai, visiting the 53 Shuku (post stations established by the government) along the historic Tokaido Samurai Road.
In recent years, I have seen many news highlighting the remarkable surge in foreign tourists visiting Japan.
Then, well-known destinations like Kyoto, Osaka, Tokyo, and Mt. Fuji are reportedly becoming overcrowded, leading to issues due to the high influx of visitors.
The locations I share on this blog are not necessarily the typical tourist hotspots, but I am hoping they will serve a little as valuable suggestions for hidden gems that have yet to be discovered by international visitors.
So far, I have visited 28 of the 53 Shuku, covering nearly half of the journey.
Both my Apple Watch and iPhone suggest I have walked over 280 kilometers in reality.
Unfortunately, the recent extreme heat has delayed my progress, and I have had to temporarily pause my journey.
However, my goal remains to complete the remaining leg of this journey to Kyoto by the end of the year.
Breathtaking Scenery and Echoes of the Samurai Era
During this journey, I have encountered magnificent landscapes and vestiges, many of which date back to the Samurai era.
Some of these sites are not well-known tourist destinations and even more special as some can only be reached by foot.
↑ The majestic Mt. Fuji viewed from the Old Tokaido Road near the Fuji River.
↓ A famous Ukiyo-e painting from the Edo period.
The angle of the view closely resembled a photo I took, creating a deep sense of connection with the artist from centuries ago.
↑ The grated yam soup shop, "Choji-ya," a traditional Japanese house still operating in the Mariko-Shuku on the Old Tokaido Road.
Astonishingly, this shop was established in 1596—over 400 years ago!
↓ An Edo period Ukiyo-e of Mariko-Shuku depicting the same shop.
↓ In areas like Hakone and Kanaya, stone pavements from the Edo period remain, preserving the rich legacy of the Old Tokaido Road.
These centuries-old stone pavements, while atmospheric and full of history, were harsh on my feet, leaving me with painful blisters.
↓ The picturesque Kakegawa Castle at Kakegawa-shuku.
↓ Vast tea plantations and the Old Tokaido Road near Nissaka-shuku.
↓ The awe-inspiring view of Mt. Fuji from Satta Pass along the Old Tokaido Road.
↓ The Horai Bridge, the world’s longest wooden bridge near the Old Tokaido Road of Shimada-Shuku.
↓ Rice fields, herons, and ancient pine trees along the Old Tokaido Road, make it seem as if they have remained unchanged since the Edo period.
Around Fukuroi-Shuku.
The Lives of People Preserving the Old Townscape of the Shuku
↓ Koi-nobori of the Kanaya-Shuku.
Koinobori (carp streamers) are a Japanese custom that began among samurai families in the Edo period, and are streamers made in the shape of carp that are displayed in the front yards of homes on Boys' Day in May to pray for the healthy growth of boys.
↓ Roadside decorations crafted by the residents of Kanaya-Shuku.
↓ A beautifully adorned bar district in Shizuoka City, Fuchu-Shuku.
The restaurants in this area are famous for Oden, a food that has been loved by common people in Japan since around the 14th century.
↓ The Jizo statues lining the roadside of Mishima-Shuku.
Things you miss on a Shinkansen trip
Modern technology is really remarkable.
The Shinkansen allows one to traverse the entire Tokaido route, from Tokyo to Kyoto, in just two hours.
It is undeniably convenient and efficient.
However, walking, as people did in the past, is an entirely different experience, moving at a far slower pace.
Even in challenging conditions—be it rain, storms, or aching feet—walking 4 kilometers per hour for eight hours a day would take roughly 16 days to complete the 492-kilometer journey.
Typically, this would span about three weeks.
↑A sign showing the distance from Nihombashi, Tokyo.
↓A very small, unstable bridge on the road to Hakone Pass.
Yet, during this extended walk, I realized that there are countless beautiful sights and lively communities you would never notice while speeding past at 300 kilometers per hour on a Shinkansen.
These are experiences that only reveal themselves when walking at 4 kilometers per hour.
Someday, if you have the time, why not try walking the section of the road that you move by car or train every day?
I am sure you will find new discoveries waiting for you in places you do not usually notice.
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That concludes this brief article, but if you are interested, I may write a bit more about my further experiences and reflections from each leg of this journey.
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最後にここは日本語で書きますが、上記はChatGTPに、私の原文をUpper level Englishにしてと頼んで校正してもらいました。
私は日常会話なら最低限の意思疎通できる程度の英語は話せるのですが、ネイティブスピーカーに分かりやすくて教科書的でない自然な文章を、と考えたらChatGTPにはとても敵いません。
「新幹線のような現代の技術に頼らず、自分の足で歩いてみることの良さ」を書いたばかりではありますが、使うべきところでは最新技術の恩恵は無視できません。
そして何より、、60歳を超えても新しいものにも取り組んむチャレンジ精神は失わないようにしたいと思ってます。
それでは。