Preface
This blog chronicles my reflections and observations as a middle-aged Japanese man during a 492-kilometer journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, undertaken entirely on foot without the use of Shinkansen trains or cars.
The route I walked is called as the Old Tokaido road and was an important route that could be said to be the main artery of Japan during the Edo period between 1603 and 1868.
For reference
According to Wikipedia, the Old Tokaido Road was established in 1601 by the Shogun, Ieyasu Tokunaga, under the Edo government.
For reference
Even today, some 400 years after its establishment, this old road still retains traces of the Edo period here and there, and walking along it, one can feel a sense of old Japan.
It follows the remnants of the Edo period, the era of Samurai, visiting the 53 Shuku (post stations established by the Edo government) along the historic Tokaido Road.
In recent years, I have seen many reports highlighting the remarkable surge in foreign tourists visiting Japan.
Then, well-known destinations like Kyoto, Osaka, Asakusa, Shibuya, and Mt. Fuji are reportedly becoming overcrowded, leading to issues due to the high influx of visitors.
The locations I share on this blog are not necessarily the typical tourist hotspots, but I am hoping they will serve a little as valuable suggestions for hidden gems that have yet to be discovered by international visitors.
As a result of this journey so far, I have visited 28 of the 53 Shuku, marking roughly half of the total.
The guidebook records the total distance covered as 237 kilometers, but both my Apple Watch and iPhone suggest that I have already walked over 280 kilometers in reality.
The recent extreme heat has delayed my progress and I can not put my plan into action for the time being, but I aim to complete the remaining portion of the journey to Kyoto by the end of the year.
Beautiful Scenery and Traces of the Samurai Era
Throughout this journey, I have witnessed stunning landscapes and remnants of Japan’s local villages, dating back to the Samurai era.
Some of these sites are not well-known tourist destinations, accessible only by foot, making them all the more special.
↑ The majestic Mt. Fuji viewed from the Old Tokaido Road near the Fuji River.
↓ The famous Ukiyo-e painting from the Edo period.
The angle of the view was strikingly similar to a photograph I took, evoking a profound connection with the artist from centuries ago.
↑ The grated yam soup shop, "Choji-ya," a traditional Japanese house still operating in the Mariko-Shuku on the Old Tokaido Road.
Astonishingly, this shop was established in 1596—over 400 years ago!
↓ An Edo period Ukiyo-e of Mariko-Shuku depicting the same shop.
↓ In places like Hakone and Kanaya, the stone pavements from the Edo period have been preserved, a testament to the enduring legacy of the Old Tokaido Road.
The centuries-old stone pavements are rich in atmosphere, though they took a toll on my feet, leaving me with painful blisters.
↓ The picturesque Kakegawa Castle at Kakegawa-shuku.
↓ Vast tea plantations and the Old Tokaido Road near Nissaka-shuku.
↓ The awe-inspiring view of Mt. Fuji from Satta Pass along the Old Tokaido Road.
↓ The Horai Bridge, the world’s longest wooden bridge near the Old Tokaido Road of Shimada-Shuku.
↓ Rice paddies, herons, and ancient pine trees along the Old Tokaido Road, that seem to have remained untouched since the Edo period. Around Fukuroi-Shuku.
The Lives of People Preserving the Old Townscape of the Shuku
↓ Koi-nobori of the Kanaya-Shuku
↓ Roadside decorations crafted by the residents of Kanaya-Shuku.
↓ A beautifully adorned bar district in Shizuoka City, Fuchu-Shuku.
↓ The Jizo statues lining the roadside from Hakone-Shuku to Numazu-Shuku.
Things you miss on a Shinkansen trip
Modern technology is indeed remarkable.
Using the Shinkansen, one can travel the entire distance of the Tokaido, from Tokyo to Kyoto, in merely two hours.
It's undeniably convenient and efficient.
Conversely, walking is a far slower endeavor.
Simple calculations show that even under challenging conditions—rain, storms, or foot pain—if one walks 4 kilometers per hour for eight hours a day, it would take 16 days to cover the 492 kilometers.
Typically, this journey would span approximately three weeks.
However, during this prolonged walk, I realized that there are many beautiful sights and vibrant communities that you would miss while speeding by on a Shinkansen at 280 kilometers per hour—things only revealed by walking at 4 kilometers per hour.
That's all for this short article, but if you are interested, I might write a bit more about my further experiences and feels from each leg of the journey.
For reference.
