American High Style” Exhibition:

I talked about “American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity”, the fashion

history exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art , through August 15th

previously. Concurrently, and in conjunction with it, The Brooklyn Museum

is presenting, “American High Style”, until August 1st.

At the entrance of the exhibition, there were designer clothes that were the

foundation of fashion in the United States. The gold organdy blouse with

bow worn with gold beaded silk jersey pants on the right is by Norman

Norell; red silk taffeta strapless sheath evening gown is by Charles James;

the pink dress on the lower left, is by Bonnie Cashin; the black striped

evening dress is by Frederick Worth, the first Couture designer in the

world. They are essential designers when we think about the history of any

modern woman’s apparel.

In the space, there are 85 dresses, plus shoes, jewelry and accessories.

This exhibition does not use the expansive vignettes that The Metropolitan

Museum of Art does, to build historical atmosphere. Instead, they let the

beauty of the dresses themselves explain the fashion in a straight forward,

simple way.

American style has been greatly influenced by European fashion,

especially by the gowns bought by American customers

in Paris from French designers, starting in the 1870’s.

So this exhibition begins with French designer dresses.

A black lace dress by Balenciaga, a red Christian Dior dress and a sculptural, full,

evening dress by Madame Gres, gave off an air of elegance. How I long to wear

them, even now.

I am interested in antique French Fashion Dolls. They were sent to every

European court to be copied, by Louis XIV, who wanted everyone to know about

French fashion.

Later, they took off in America after the Civil War,

showing women the latest styles.

Others produced around 1892, took on the role of fashion models.

Somehow, I would like to collect them. For a while I stood there admiring them,

while memories, which brought back my first love of fashion, flashed through

my mind. These expensive collectibles (some are almost $10,000 now), would

be like having the ultimate Barbie Doll.　

I saw Claire McCardell clothes that I love.

Even though, of course, I’ve never worn one of her designs, she was the

foremost designer in the history of American fashion and the inventor of

sportswear (simple coordinated clothing).

Her simple cutting is very modern and seems a comfortable fit.

Her relaxed style is one I want to wear now. Arnold Scaasi, I am sure,

is the designer who best represents American elegance.

I would really like to wear his cream silk dress, with a harem hemline, covered

with big red and black polka dots, and the matching full, red barathea coat

lined with the same fabric. He designed many dresses and coats for First Lady,

Jacqueline Kennedy and Barbara Bush etc. He made them the woman who

represented “American High Society” in the United States.

I really think that I will not forget this kind of elegance after seeing this

exhibition.

But how can I be elegant, when I am wearing a sweatshirt to write this article?

Vol.56 American High Style Exhibition / English