Francisco Costa has mastered the art of minimalism without repetition. Season after season he turns out thoughtful collections for Calvin Klein, subtly updating the brand’s vision of luxe austerity while providing his own take on modern elegance. Fall brings Costa into fresh territory with plays on texture and shape. The restrained color palette might not stray far from the neutral zone, but the array of finishes keeps things compelling. Bonded alpaca, cashmere, jersey, flannel, leather, lambskin; just an assortment of the materials Costa utilizes to great effect. It takes a moment to notice such an understated use of sumptuous textiles, but that is part of the magic. No matter how many hours of blood, sweat and tears were poured into the collection, it always looks effortless. Simplicity is the most difficult thing a designer can accomplish and it is the crux of true luxury. When Lara Stone glides down the runway in Costa’s metallic shift looking like she was born to wear it, you begin to understand the diligence and commitment to artistry that has come to define the Calvin brand.
